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Thursday, August 07, 2003 Eat: Recommended RestaurantsEl cheapo
By James P. Reza
Yes, we know there are as many types of Latin and Mexican food as there are Spanish-speaking regions around the globe. And we know that some of those listed below hardly qualify as "Mexican food." Forgive us, but we're dispensing with the expected kneejerk political correctness of most alt.weeklies for a moment in order to explore one region only: the Land of the Fast, Cheap and Hot. If the menu mentions beans, tortillas and salsa, in any combination, and if it's served up quickly and inexpensively, you'll find it below. Quality--and your mileage--may vary.
Baja Fresh Mexican Grill 4760 W. Sahara Ave.; 878-7772 (plus 10 other locations) $; Casual Baja Fresh is the ultimate cheap eatery--a clean, well-lighted place to enjoy a burrito. Though the burritos here are considerably pricier than 49 cents (some reach $5), the quality is surprising considering the speed with which they are delivered. The egalitarian lunch crowd is a mixture of suits and shorts, all enjoying the indoor/outdoor seating and grilled-to-order food.
Casa Don Juan 1202 S. Main St.; 384-8070 $; Casual Downtown's rebirth isn't coming only in the manner of $5 million bars and chichi outlet malls (though we love those, too). Visiting the completely reborn (after a fire years ago) Casa Don Juan is like stepping out of Las Vegas and into Downtown, Anyplace. Freshly handmade tortillas wrap the expected tacos and burritos, but digging deeper on the menu reveals the Baja-inspired parrillada (seafood grill), steak ranchero and chilaquiles.
Chipotle 4530 S. Maryland Parkway; 436-9177 10251 S. Eastern Ave.; 361-6438 $; Casual That Chipotle chose to locate in the suburbs before coming to the city is odd, considering its urban hipster/collegiate vibe. But now that it's open across from UNLV, you too can slum with the undeclared undergrads. Tasty, custom-made 20-ounce burritos, fresh tacos and the trump card once held by the late Taco Cabana, beer and margaritas, are the staples, but the authentic (hot!) salsas fuel the food here. The simple, lime-heavy tastes are more authentically Mexican than Baja Fresh.
Doña Maria's 910 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 382-6538 3205 N. Tenaya Way; 656-1600 $; Casual This few-frills, family-owned Mexican cocina features the expected combination plates, but choose from the tamales menu--pork, chicken or cheese--as this is Doña's true fame claim. Experienced diners know to request a bowl of the smoking hot chipotle salsa, with a snowy margarita to quench the flame. There's always a futbol match on the big screen, and lunch tables fill fast.
El Burrito 8508 Del Webb Blvd.; 255-1069 633 N. Decatur Blvd.; 870-1969 $; Casual This family restaurant was originally located downtown in the 1950s, but fled to the suburbs many years ago. The atmosphere is that of a comfortable, neighborhood eatery (there's a television always screening basketball), and the big-portion, inexpensive food is what most expect of a small Mexican place. The chilaquiles (egg, chile and corn tortilla casserole) is among the best we've tasted.
El Sombrero Cafe 807 S. Main St.; 382-9234 $; Casual Since 1950, El Sombrero has been the archetypical Mexican hole-in-the-wall. A tiny storefront in a part of town most suburbanites ignorantly avoid, El Sombrero is still owned by the same bloodline that launched it. The food is classic Mex-American: cheap, good eats overflowing the plate. Weekday lunches are consistently busy.
Frank & Fina's Cocina 5550 W. Charleston Blvd.; 878-8669 $; Casual Located in a tiny, old A-frame building, Frank and Fina's family-run restaurant is popular with just about everyone: lunching secretaries, hip students on a budget, regular Joes and Josés, and, thanks to the vegetarian section of its menu, granolas. The guacamole is flavorful, and the chimichanga-style burritos stand out. There's only a limited liquor license, so margaritas are made with wine, which is just fine.
La Salsa 450 Fremont St.; 384-1720 (and other locations) $; Casual Though there are several locations of this Mexican chain scattered in tourist spots throughout Vegas, the Neonopolis version is the only one boasting outdoor seating. Serving a mild, California-inspired version of Mexican food, La Salsa's menu tends toward the known rather than the challenging. The large patio overlooks the Fremont Street Experience and its expected urban streetside theater.
Tacos Mexico 3820 W. Sahara Ave.; 385-7673 $; Casual Like something straight out of East L.A., this unassuming Mexican diner is located in a repurposed googie-style fast food building. Open late and always busy, Tacos Mexico specializes in the real thing: tacos that taste so different you may think you've died and gone to Mexico. Why fast food taco joints still exist is a mystery, for this place does them immeasurably better and almost as cheap. |
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