Chicago Joe's

Thursday, June 19, 2003
Copyright © Las Vegas Mercury

Eat: Recommended Restaurants

The lunch bunch

By James P. Reza

As staying fit (or at least losing weight) has become a nationwide obsession, lunch is rapidly becoming everyone's favorite meal. It's far better to fuel your body when it needs it (for those long afternoon runs to the snack machine, for example), than to shore up on pasta and bread at 9 in the evening. And even in a city that traditionally has done its business over dinner or cocktails, doing lunch is suddenly the hot new pastime. With that, places of all stripes, from low-rent to big bucks, have worked to cultivate a lunch crowd.

Baja Fresh Mexican Grill

4760 W. Sahara Ave.; 878-7772

(plus 10 other locations)

$; Casual

Baja Fresh is the ultimate cheap eatery--a clean, well-lighted place to enjoy a burrito. Though the burritos here are considerably pricier than 49¢ (some reach $5), the quality is surprising considering the speed with which it is delivered. The egalitarian lunch crowd is a mixture of suits and shorts, all enjoying the indoor/outdoor seating and grilled-to-order food.

Bradley Ogden

3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 731-7413

$$$-$$$$; Smart Casual

San Fancisco chef Bradley Ogden, a champion of high-end noveau cuisine, recently opened his ninth eatery right here in Las Vegas. Located just outside Celine Dion's Collosseum (supposedly, if you can pay the price for Celine, you can afford Bradley's), Bradley Ogden has quickly caught the attention of the power lunchers with its clubby atmosphere and closely attended menu (Ogden is currently hands-on at this location).

Capriotti's Sandwich Shop

324 W. Sahara Ave.; 474-0229

3981 E. Sunset Road; 898-4904

$; Casual

Ten of these no-frills deli counters are sprinkled across the valley, a testament to the bustling business earned by the two originals. Bags of chips and canned sodas are an afterthought, but with messy subs this good, who cares? The notorious Bobbie (Thanksgiving on a bun) is a word-of-mouth fave, while the (usually bland) veggie burger is packed with flavor.

Chicago Joe's

820 S. Fourth St.; 382-5637

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Open since the early 1980s, Chicago Joe's has survived unchanged the remaking of Las Vegas. Ensconced in a diminutive brick bungalow, Joe's serves southern Italian cooking, Chicago style. At lunch, Joe's intimate atmosphere electrifies with downtown suits craving something more than fast food.

Coffee Pub

2800 W. Sahara Ave.; 367-1913

$; Casual

It's been around long enough to earn a nickname and a steady following, and done what is necessary to keep them. "The Pub" was among the first off-Strip breakfast/lunch joints for the power players, with a friendly, efficient staff serving soup with sandwiches on freshly baked bread. Outdoor seating makes this a fave stop during spring and fall.

Frank & Fina's Cocina

5550 W. Charleston Blvd.; 878-8669

$; Casual

Located in a tiny, old A-frame building, Frank and Fina's family run restaurant is popular with just about everyone: lunching secretaries, hip students on a budget, regular Joes and Josés, and, thanks to the vegetarian section of its menu, granolas. The guacamole is flavorful, and the chimichanga-style burritos stand out. There's only a limited liquor license, so margaritas are made with wine, which is just fine.

Paymon's Mediterranean Café

4147 S. Maryland Parkway; 731-6030

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Before the local palate appreciated ethnic dining, Paymon Raouf was serving tasty tabouleh and fab falafel to the college crowd. As the city sophisticated, so went the Cafe, adding a Hookah Lounge (with full bar) and expanding the hours and menu. Lunch tables are prime real estate, dinner crowds pleasantly hip and articulate.

Mon Ami Gabi

3655 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 946-4433

$$-$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

There are few Vegas places that were as quickly adopted by the power lunch and society gal set as this French sidewalk cafe on the Strip. Dining al fresco is clearly underserved in Vegas, for even the platinum prices don't keep people from using the tables here as dealmakers--just as on the real Champs Elysée. A steak fritte, a glass of wine...you are Bardot in waiting.

Rosemary's

8125 W. Sahara Ave.; 869-2251

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

The local restaurant that raised the bar for off-Strip dining, Rosemary's is an upscale American bistro by former Emeril chefs Michael and Wendy Jordan. Eschewing the comfort food trend, nothing is simple at this prixe fixe power lunch spot: rich New Orleans style infuses most of the choices, including BBQ Shrimp over Maytag Blue Cheese Slaw, White Peach & Prosciutto Salad, and parsnip and prosciutto scallops.

Sonio's Cafe

3900 W. Charleston Blvd.; 870-5090

$; Casual

The livability of a metropolis isn't measured at the bloated middle, but at the top and bottom where personality thrives. It's places like Sonio's--an unassuming storefront diner serving food fresh, fast, and inexpensive--that other cities take for granted. Rotisserie chicken (and associated dishes) is the specialty, while pita wraps and huge salads are excellent alternatives.

Wildflower Cafe

3818 Meadows Lane; 258-1554

$; Casual

Once a photo and flower shop with a small cafe (!), Wildflower serves a loyal lunch clientele that adores its indoor/outdoor seating and quiet but central location. The country decor can be off-putting to the average hipster, but the healthful menu choices, including unusual fresh bread sandwiches, homemade soup in bread bowls, and smoothies, are consistently excellent.

The Mercury wants you to EAT! We're compiling a special installment of EAT, one that will be written primarily by you, our readers. Please e-mail the name and phone number of your favorite restaurant, as well as a quotable paragraph or two about why you love the place (food? atmosphere? service?), to jpreza@cox.net. Ownership, management, staff and PR, please refrain from sauteeing your own beef. Not all submissions will be used, so get over it.

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