La Salsa

Thursday, March 20, 2003
Copyright © Las Vegas Mercury

Eat: Recommended Restaurants

By James P. Reza

This week's theme:

Al Fresco

Though the Las Vegas dining scene has improved markedly over the past decade, something the harsh Mojave Desert climate makes difficult is the coveted outdoor nosh. We're not talking about the faux "outdoor" settings provided by themed shopping complexes (though those can be enjoyable too). We mean honest al fresco muncho, under the bright blue (or star struck) sky. With spring promising to push winter out sooner than expected, keep this list close, as we'll be bang in the middle of hell's kitchen before you know it.

Border Grill

3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-7402

$$; Smart Casual

"Too Hot Tamales" chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger are famous for taking the street foods of southern Mexico and reworking them to define progressive Southwestern cuisine. Don't expect a plate covered with beans and rice; instead, menu choices include a variety of ceviche (cold-cooked fish), plantain empañadas, tamales, tacos and more. Outdoor tables in the Mandalay Bay pool area make lunch a tropical excursion.

Coffee Pub

2800 W. Sahara Blvd.; 367-1913

$; Casual

It's been around long enough to earn a nickname and a steady following, and done what is necessary to keep them. "The Pub" was among the first off-Strip breakfast/lunch joints for the power players, with a friendly, efficient staff serving breakfast, soup, sandwiches (on freshly baked bread) and smoothies. Outdoor seating in a Californiate complex makes this a fave stop during spring and fall.

La Salsa

450 Fremont St.; 384-1720

$; Casual

Though there are several locations of this Mexican chain scattered in tourist spots throughout Vegas, the Neonopolis version is the only one boasting outdoor seating. Serving a mild, California-inspired version of Mexican food, La Salsa's menu tends toward the known rather than the challenging. The large patio overlooks the Fremont Street Experience and its expected urban streetside theater.

Mon Ami Gabi

3655 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 946-4433

$$-$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

There are few Vegas places that were as quickly adopted by the power lunch and society gal set as this French sidewalk cafe on the Strip. Upscale al fresco is clearly under-served in Vegas, for even the platinum prices don't keep people from using the Strip-view tables as dealmakers--just as on the real Champs Elysée. A steak fritte, a glass of wine...you are Bardot in waiting.

Olives

3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 693-7223

$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Todd English's Bellagio eatery is not the place you go to "have a pizza," but we'll be damned if the pizz...--err, flatbreads--here aren't delicious and light and delightfully flavorful. A wafer-thin, crispy crust holds portobello, fig and proscuitto, mozzarella basil, or chicken sausage and ricotta. The rest of the menu (including a fantastic Greek salad) is equally high maintenance but delish. Coveted balcony seating overlooks the Strip and the fountain show.

P.F. Chang's China Bistro

4165 Paradise Road

792-2207

1095 S. Rampart Blvd.

968-8885

$-$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Yes, you can get noodles here. And rice. But the honest draw is the people parade: the hostesses are beautiful, the wait staff quick and quirky, and the bar slammed with hipsters. If you still want to eat, try the tofu lettuce wraps, the garlic noodles and the Szechwan long beans--but beware: what sounds vegetarian often is not. In Summerlin, suits and trendy entrepreneurs sip Sapphire side by side.

Pink Taco

4455 Paradise Road (in the Hard Rock Hotel)

693-5000

$; Smart Casual/Trendy

This is the Ÿber-sexy beachside taqueria in the Cabo of your dreams. Everyone--staff, sexpots, satyrs--looks to have been plucked from MTV, and the music volume boosts conversation to strip club levels. Unexpectedly, the Mexican menu (by chef Tacho Kneeland) is equally as appealing as the people, with unusual items such as chilaquiles emerging properly tasteful. The semi-enclosed patio seating entices poolside.

The Egg & I

4533 W. Sahara Ave.; 634-9686

$; Casual

If you are looking for a casual, off-Strip place for breakfast and lunch, this laidback storefront will do just fine. There are plenty of egg and skillet breakfasts, pancakes and waffles and a varied menu of tasty (and often healthy) sandwiches from which to choose. The accommodations are simple, and umbrella-covered tables beckon outdoors.

Wildflower Cafe

3818 Meadows Lane; 258-1554

$; Casual

Once a photo and flower shop with a small cafe (!), Wildflower serves a loyal lunch clientele that adores its indoor/outdoor seating and quiet but central location. The country decor can be off-putting to the average hipster, but the healthful menu choices, including unusual fresh bread sandwiches, homemade soup in bread bowls, and smoothies, are consistently excellent.