Andre's

Thursday, May 29, 2003
Copyright © Las Vegas Mercury

Eat: Recommended restaurants

Local charm redux

By James P. Reza

Even the most casual diner recognizes the three primary categories of eateries in Vegas: those ensconced in a casino, those operated by a corporate chain and those one- or two-off locations with a resident owner and loads of personality. Even with the dining renaissance that has washed over Las Vegas in the past decade, there are nights when schlepping through a casino or suffering dining deja vu at a chain-joint just won't do. For those nights, we suggest you go native. We're restless, after all.

Andre's

401 S. Sixth Street; 385-5016

$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

Andre Rochat has held fast in this downtown bungalow for two decades, a testament to the chef's tasty French haute cuisine. Foie gras is now almost commonplace, but frog legs are not. With a menu that explores the breadth of France, a wine list boasting 500-plus selections and garden dining reminiscent of Manhattan, Andre's remains a player despite increased competition to the south.

Bob Taylor's Ranch House

6250 Rio Vista St.; 645-1399

$$-$$$; Casual/Smart Casual

You can get Mesquite-grilled steaks and seafood on almost any corner anymore, so why make the drive to Bob Taylor's? For a taste of old-school hospitality and an escape from corporate blandness. Filet and shrimp, lobster tail, prime rib....the menu reads like 1950s Vegas.

Capozzolli's

3333 Maryland Parkway; 731-5311

$-$$; Casual

Though serving a full menu of standard southern Italian food, the pizza (as well as the late-night entertainment, which sometimes includes post-show Strip entertainers) is the main reason to visit Capozzoli's. Everyone has his favorite pizza, and many consider this to be the place that serves it.

Coffee Pub

2800 W. Sahara Ave.; 367-1913

$; Casual

Marty's Cal-style eatery has been around long enough to earn a nickname and a steady following, and done what is necessary to keep them. "The Pub" was among the first off-Strip breakfast/lunch joints for the power players, with a friendly, efficient staff serving soup with sandwiches on freshly baked bread. Outdoor seating makes this a fave stop during spring and fall.

Food Express

2003 S. Decatur Blvd.; 870-1595

$; Casual/Smart Casual

The authenticity of an Asian restaurant is said to be measured by the gringo ratio; here it runs about 1-to-10, where busloads of jonesing Asian tourists often descend on this unassuming joint. The daily menu boards are handwritten in Chinese, though a printed menu concedes to English. Get past the sometimes-surly attitude to get at the good food, served until 2 a.m. every night.

Frank & Fina's Cocina

5550 W. Charleston Blvd.; 878-8669

$; Casual

Located in a tiny, old A-frame building, Frank and Fina's family-run restaurant is popular with just about everyone: lunching secretaries, hip students on a budget, regular Joes and Josés, and, thanks to the vegetarian section of its menu, granolas. The guacamole is flavorful, and the chimichanga-style burritos stand out. There's only a limited liquor license, so margaritas are made with wine, which is just fine.

Hush Puppy

7185 W. Charleston Blvd.; 363-5988

$; Casual-Smart Casual

If Southern-fried cooking is your thing, let Hush Puppy be your place. Almost a Vegas institution, Hush Puppy specializes in fried catfish, shrimp and the namesake little balls of cornmeal. Nightly specials (some all-you-can-eat) and the prevalence of battered seafood that kids are accustomed to make this a great choice.

Sonio's Cafe

3900 W. Charleston Blvd.; 870-5090

$; Casual

The livability of a metropolis isn't measured at the bloated middle, but at the top and bottom where personality thrives. It's places like Sonio's--an unassuming storefront diner serving food fresh, fast and inexpensive--that other cities take for granted. Rotisserie chicken (and associated dishes) is the specialty, while pita wraps and huge salads are excellent alternatives.

Thai BBQ

1424 South 3rd St.; 383-1128

$; Casual

This longtime Vegas eatery has made a name for itself by satisfying the take-out urges of many a lunching downtown cube farmer, and is the place where many in town savored their first taste of Thai iced tea and coffee. The namesake barbecue is tasty, the satay very good and the soup a nice alternative. Be careful what and how you order; this food can be hot.

Tre

1050 South Rampart Blvd.; 946-6200

$$-$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Tre--from New York's (and now Las Vegas') famed Maccioni restaurant family (Circo)--is the most impressive off-Strip eatery in Vegas. A freestanding Summerlin building, Tre is modern Mediterranean-Arabesque, Moorish, Italianate with an inspired menu to match.

Wildflower Cafe

3818 Meadows Lane; 258-1554

$; Casual

Once a photo and flower shop with a small cafe (!), Wildflower serves a loyal lunch clientele that adores its indoor/outdoor seating and quiet but central location. The country decor can be off-putting to the average hipster, but the healthful menu choices, including unusual fresh bread sandwiches, homemade soup in bread bowls, and smoothies, are consistently excellent.

You be the critic

The Mercury wants you to EAT! We're compiling a special installment of EAT, one that will be written primarily by you, our readers. Please e-mail the name and phone number of your favorite restaurant, as well as a quotable paragraph or two about why you love the place (food? atmosphere? service?), to jpreza@lvcm.com. Ownership, management, staff and PR, please refrain from sauteeing your own beef. Not all submissions will be used, so get over it.