Eat: Recommended Restaurants

By James P. Reza

Midday madness

We toil all morning, pacing to and from the coffee machine, anxiously anticipating what for many is the first real meal of the day: lunch. In our mind's stomach, we salivate at the thought of lavish, Romanesque spreads leisurely consumed while toga-clad wine gods and goddesses keep our glass half full. And then 11:30 a.m. hits and reality bites: We have 60 minutes to get there, order, swallow it whole and be back at the desk before the next batch of coffee is ready. Fortunately, there are many places where a decent lunch happens quickly enough that you don't always have to settle for drive-through.

Baja Fresh Mexican Grill

4760 W. Sahara Ave.; 878-7772

(plus 10 other locations)

$; Casual

Baja Fresh is the ultimate cheap eatery--a clean, well-lighted place to enjoy a burrito. Though the burritos here are considerably pricier than 49 cents (some reach $5), the quality is surprising considering the speed with which it is delivered. The egalitarian lunch crowd is a mixture of suits and shorts, all enjoying the indoor/outdoor seating and grilled-to-order food, including fish or shrimp tacos.

Capriotti's Sandwich Shop

324 W. Sahara Ave.; 474-0229

3981 E. Sunset Road; 898-4904

(plus eight other locations)

$; Casual

Ten of these no-frills deli counters are sprinkled across the valley, a testament to the bustling business earned by the two originals. Bags of chips and canned sodas are an afterthought, but with messy subs this good, who cares? The notorious Bobbie (Thanksgiving on a bun) is a word-of-mouth fave, while the (usually bland) veggie burger is packed with flavor.

Chipotle

4530 S. Maryland Parkway; 436-9177

10251 S. Eastern Ave.; 361-6438

$; Casual

A refreshing Mexi-chain with a urban hipster/collegiate vibe where you too can slum with the undeclared undergrads. Tasty custom-made 20-ounce burritos, fresh tacos and the trump card once held by the late Taco Cabana, beer and margaritas, are the staples, but the authentic (hot!) salsas fuel the food here. The simple, lime-heavy tastes are more authentically Mexican than Baja Fresh.

Coffee Pub

2800 W. Sahara Ave.; 367-1913

$; Casual

It's been around long enough to earn a nickname and a steady following, and done what is necessary to keep them. "The Pub" was among the first off-Strip breakfast/lunch joints for the power players, with a friendly, efficient staff serving soup with sandwiches on freshly baked bread. Outdoor seating makes this a fave stop during spring and fall.

El Sombrero Cafe

807 S. Main St.; 382-9234

$; Casual

Since 1950, El Sombrero has been the archetypical Mexican hole-in-the-wall. A tiny storefront in a part of town most suburbanites ignorantly avoid, El Sombrero is still owned by the same bloodline that launched it. The food is classic Mex-American: cheap, good eats overflowing the plate. Weekday lunches are consistently busy.

Mimi's Café

121 S. Fort Apache Road; 341-0365

$; Casual

This Costa Mesa-based diner is a pick of Orange County denizens joyriding to the beach, but the Summerlin version sacrifices the SoCal insouciance. Mimi's serves a very tasty breakfast (and freshly baked muffins) all day, along with a varied menu of comfort food. Beware the lemming locals who jack up the weekend wait time; volunteer to sit at the counter to avoid the line.

Montesano's Italian Deli

3441 W. Sahara Ave.; 876-0348

4835 W. Craig Road; 656-3708

$; Casual

One visit illustrates why Montesano's has grown from a small storefront deli to a busy diner (the Craig Road location, within a bustling middle-class neighborhood, is the cozy, de facto diner the Sahara location once was). The menu is a mishmash of New York Italian dishes; the pizzas are all delicious, and the sandwiches (including sliced-to-order egg salad) show why locals line up to buy fresh bread. Leave room to gaze at the fresh dessert case.

Paymon's Mediterranean Café

4147 S. Maryland Parkway; 731-6030

8380 W. Sahara Ave.; 731-6030

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Before the local palate appreciated ethnic dining, Paymon Raouf was serving tasty tabouleh and fab falafel to the college crowd. As the city sophisticated, so went the Cafe, adding a Hookah Lounge (with full bar), expanding the hours and menu, and then adding a second west side location. Lunch tables are prime real estate, dinner crowds pleasantly hip and articulate.

Wildflower Cafe

3818 Meadows Lane; 258-1554

$; Casual

Once a photo and flower shop with a small cafe (!), Wildflower serves a loyal lunch clientele that adores its indoor/outdoor seating and quiet but central location. The country decor can be off-putting to the average hipster, but the healthful menu choices, including unusual fresh bread sandwiches, homemade soup in bread bowls and smoothies are consistently excellent.

James P. Reza is the dining editor of the Las Vegas edition of the 2004 Zagat Survey. Send your dining faves to jpreza@cox.net.