Eat: Recommended Restaurants

By James P. Reza

With the exception of the native Paiutes, Las Vegas has always been a city of immigrants, a desert El Dorado where expats from all places arrive seeking their own pot of gold. With those hungry expats come culinary imports, nosh joints whose very names conjure images of locales never visited or once called home.

Broadway Pizzeria

850 S. Rancho Drive; 259-9002

$; Casual

"Hey, how you doin', chief?" Greeted thusly by the dough tosser the moment the door swings wide to this unassuming storefront, you know this is a good Nu Yawk pizzeria. Centrally located, Broadway Pizzeria has become the favorite Italian takeout joint for the Navigator moms from the nearby pricey 'hoods, as well as a hopping spot for the downtown lunch bunch. The deep dish is good, but we prefer the thin crust.

Chicago Brewing Company

2201 S. Fort Apache Road; 254-3333

$-$$; Casual; Smart Casual

Windy City expats and fans of microbrewed beer (not to mention da Bulls and da Bears) rave about the selection of house concoctions poured here, complementing the tasty Chicago-style Italian food (including pizza) and all-American pub grub. Even the kids can get in on the act with the house-brewed root beer, making this a jamming neighborhood joint.

Chicago Joe's

820 S. Fourth St.; 382-5637

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Ensconced since the early 1980s in a diminutive 1932 brick bungalow, the lack of a full bar hasn't stopped Chicago Joe's from surviving the remaking of Las Vegas. Joe's serves southern Italian cooking, Chicago style, in a comfortably intimate atmosphere. Tasty signatures include spicy Lobster Joe and stuffed artichokes to offset the red sauce pasta. Urban, romantic and affordable--and the Bulls are always on during season.

Eiffel Tower Restaurant

3655 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 946-4433

Black Tie; $$$$

Seventy feet up the Paris' Eiffel Tower replica, this room was ready made for romance, with nice views of the Strip and the Bellagio fountain show. The atmosphere is snazzy old Vegas (dress the part, ladies and gentlemen), and the menu--Parisian, of course--features truffles and foie gras and beef.

Florida Cafe

1401 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 385-3013

$-$$; Casual

Shoehorned into the front of the Howard Johnson Hotel, this Cuban cafe does a good job of offering something for everyone. Breakfast is fairly standard; make certain you sample the Cuban bread and eggs with sweet plantains. At lunch and dinner, there are more Cuban specialties--chuletas empanizadas (breaded pork chops) and picadillo aceitunado (Cuban beef hash) among them--along with a tasty appetizer menu.

Hamada of Japan

365 E. Flamingo Road; 733-3005

$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Dating to an era when Japanese teppan-yaki was a trendy fave, Hamada offers the perfect combination of kitsch and style. There's standard table service here, but the fun (and the parade of beautiful people) can be found at the sushi bar or the teppan room, where food is sliced, diced and sizzled before your eyes.

Lotus of Siam

953 E. Sahara Ave.; 735-3033

$$; Smart Casual

Valley insiders know Saipin and Bill Chutima's Thai room is considered one of the best restaurants (and values) in Las Vegas, but even those in the know may be surprised to discover that it's renowned among global travelers too. Visitors tired of the gourmet rooms brave the Commercial Center for top southern Thai (pad Thai, satay), but stay for the northern specialties menu that includes Pla Dook Yang (charbroiled whole catfish).

Malibu Chan's

8125 W. Sahara Ave.; 312-4267

$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Californicated Asian fare, just the way we like it, dude. A busy bar scene, late hours and an air of casual elegance make this fusion eatery a popular west-end stop, particularly for happy hour. Though the service can be indifferent, even stand-offish, the well-mixed cocktails, the food (everything from fresh sushi to Puckish pizza), and the delicious desserts make it usually worth the effort.

Marrakech

3900 Paradise Road; 737-5611

$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Considered by many to be too touristy to be taken seriously, the Moroccan Marrakech nevertheless takes itself very seriously. All diners are fed the same six-course meal (soup, salad plate, lamb and fowl; vegetarians should mention so at the time of reservation) while seated cross-legged on floor pillows and eyeing the talented belly dancers. We only wish they wouldn't try to usher us out so quickly.

Memphis Championship Barbecue

2250 E. Warm Springs Road; 260-6909

4379 Las Vegas Blvd. North; 644-0000

4949 N. Rancho Drive; 396-6223

$; Casual

Barbecue is a big deal down south, representing one of the few culinary arenas in which men willingly get their grill on, developing secret recipes that turn charring flesh into a militaristic science. This local low-key chain with a big following specializes in the national award-winning dry-rub barbecue of chef-owner Mike Mills, who imports apple wood from Illinois to impart the signature flavor into baby back ribs, chicken, beef, hot links and chopped pork.

James P. Reza is the dining editor of the Las Vegas edition of the 2004 Zagat Survey. Send your dining faves to jpreza@cox.net.