Eat: Recommended Restaurants

Food 101

By James P. Reza

Just a few weeks ago, we were roasting in 115 degrees. Mercifully, the fall semester is ready to drop, and we're feeling a little nostalgic for those halcyon days at UNLV. We pine for some signposts of our undergrad era (the iconic Flora Dungan Humanities Building, a student-run rock radio station, a winning men's basketball team); you can include scarfing value eats and eyeing campus cuties among them. Whether you are an eager undergrad, a budgeting prof or just someone slumming with the literati, here's where you'll find all the bookslingers you can stand.

Baja Fresh Mexican Grill

1380 E. Flamingo Road; 699-8920

(and 10 other locations)

$; Casual

Don't argue with us; we're not having it. Until we get a Wahoo's (which is, well, never), Baja Fresh is the ultimate cheap eatery--a clean, well-lighted place to enjoy a burrito or seafood taco. The quality is surprising considering the speed with which it is delivered, and the egalitarian lunch crowd is a mixture of suits and shorts, all enjoying the indoor/outdoor seating and grilled-to-order food (which they happily customize).

Chipotle

4530 S. Maryland Parkway; 436-9177

(and four other locations)

$; Casual

Ack! What's a chain restaurant doing as a spotlight in an alt.weekly? We wrestled with this one too, while wrestling one of Chipotle's pound-and-a-quarter burritos into our eager beak. The result? We unapologetically love this joint. Founded in 1993 by Steve Ells, Chipotle is a chain of distinction, one that, despite its nationwide expansion, somehow manages to keep Ells' vision intact. Each store is consistent in its loft-like style (raw wood, concrete, metal), but unique in design. The music is a delightfully eclectic mix (we chewed to Nina Simone, Pink Martini, Demond Dekker and Wilco at one visit) deliberately dialed to a level some may call a tad too loud. And the lime-heavy fresh food is deceptively simple and well-prepared. Custom-made burritos and tacos (beef, chicken, veggie) are the staples, lime is used liberally and the authentic (hot!) salsas fuel the flavor. Carb counters can even order a tortilla-free "burrito bowl." With its urban hipster/collegiate vibe and great dining value, anyone will enjoy slumming with the undeclared undergrads, while we patiently wait for the long-promised cervezas and margaritas.

Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf

4550 S. Maryland Parkway; 944-5029

(and nine other locations)

$; Casual

We love the smell of textbooks in the morning. It may not be a proper restaurant to you, but this California-based chain's bagels, pastries and caffeine are three major food groups to collegiates. Toss in porcelain serveware (instead of paper), free Internet wi-fi, poetry/live music haps and a staff that tries hard to remember your name and you have the city's best corporate approximation of an honest coffeehouse.

Crown & Anchor British Pub

1350 E. Tropicana Ave.; 739-8676

$-$$; Casual

Oi, mate, get the footy on the telly an' bring me ah pint! A favorite of students, soccer fans and Brit ex-pats, this mostly authentic pub serves up much of Britannia's "and" grub--bangers and mash, steak and kidney pie, fish and chips--along with a great beer and cider list and a healthy dose of that workingman's Euro vibe the intellects love.

In-N-Out Burger

4705 S. Maryland Parkway; 800-786-1000

(and four other locations)

$; Casual

This now-ubiquitous chain once owned the coolest renegade bumper sticker alteration ever, the "In-N-Out Urge" that simply screamed SoCal. There are even Gen X Las Vegans who would drive 90 miles to Baker for a bag of burgers to bring back to their friends. Consequently, when the chain arrived with its freshly fried beef, fries and real ice cream shakes, its success was immediate. There is even an off-menu culture of specialty items (grilled cheese, "animal-style" burgers) you have to know about to order.

Komol

953 E. Sahara Ave.; 731-6542

$; Casual

This unassuming hole-in-the-wall ranks among the favorite eateries of the hepcat set. It's unpretentious and inexpensive, and offers substantial vegetarian choices on its Thai-centric menu. Oddly (or perhaps not), Chinese-American comfort food such as egg foo yung is also available, and you are bound to find a friend or two while dining here.

Paymon's Mediterranean Café

4147 S. Maryland Parkway

731-6030

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Before the local palate appreciated ethnic dining, Paymon Raouf was serving tasty tabouleh and fab falafel to the college crowd. As the city became more sophisticated, so went the Cafe, adding a Hookah Lounge (with full bar) and expanding the hours and menu. Lunch tables are prime real estate with the the casual intellects, dinner crowds pleasantly hip and articulate.

Metro Pizza

1395 E. Tropicana Ave.; 736-1955

4001 S. Decatur Blvd.; 362-7896

$; Casual

A local pizza joint that capitalized on its success and expanded, Metro remains a populist favorite--the one nonchain place where everyone knows you can get a great pizza or calzone. Crusts of varying thickness are available, but we prefer the extra-thin, crispy crust of the basil-heavy Olde New York.

Togoshi Ramen

855 E. Twain Ave.; 737-7003

$; Casual

The campus crowd complements lunching locals from Paradise Palms and other nearby neighborhoods in this urban Japanese storefront, where steaming bowls of fresh, affordable noodles are the star. Dress up your carbs with a variety of tasty toppings and slurp them down, face to bowl, while studying your Japanese 101 text.

Native Las Vegan James P. Reza is the dining editor of the 2004 Zagat Survey: Las Vegas. Haven't seen your fave nosh joint listed? Tip him off at jpreza@cox.net.