Eat: Recommended Restaurants

Vegas treasures

By James P. Reza

KNPR recently aired a roundtable discussion on the local dining scene. Most participants--local food critics and other dining scene experts--made note of Las Vegas's tendency to be a finished product, tried-and-tested kind of city where chains do better than they should, while local restaurants struggle. To chef Michael Jordan's (of Rosemary's) credit, he noted that most chains offer what diners want: consistency and value in service and food, regardless of price level. He's right. In the spirit, here's a few locally-owned gems that do the same.

Bootlegger Bistro

7700 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 736-4939

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

This 24-hour Vegas institution s]erves some of the city's better mid-priced Southern Italian food. The pizza, particularly the Basilico (sliced tomatoes and basil) features fresh ingredients layered just heavily enough on what may be the tastiest crust (medium thickness) in town. Typically, this bistro bustles with cooing couples and smartly dressed families, but on the weekends, when '50s-era Strip entertainers sing and dance, it's a Who's Who of Old Vegas.

Joyful House

4601 Spring Mountain Rd.; 889-8881

$$; Casual

This critics favorite for Chinese gets the nod from plenty of Asian tourists and locals, and serves a delicious, seafood-heavy Hong Kong menu from lunch through 9 p.m. Afterwards, and until 3 a.m. every night, sample the food shabu-shabu style, where you cook your selections yourself, right at the table.

Lotus of Siam

953 E. Sahara Ave.; 735-3033

$$; Smart Casual

Valley insiders know Saipin and Bill Chutima's Thai room is considered one of the best restaurants (and values) in Las Vegas, but even those in the know may be surprised to discover that it's renowned among global travelers too. Visitors tired of the gourmet rooms brave the Commercial Center for top southern Thai (pad Thai, satay), but stay for the northern specialties menu that includes Pla Dook Yang (charbroiled whole catfish).

Luv-It Frozen Custard

505 E. Oakey Blvd.; 384-6452

$; Casual

The Tiedemann family's walk-up window in the shadow of the Stratosphere and on the edge of the John S. Park Historic District has been a Vegas institution since 1973. Creamy, dreamy frozen custard (made daily on site from fresh eggs and cream) kicks the ass of any ice cream you ever had, so brave the urban location and have a real dessert for a change.

Marche Bacchus

2620 Regatta Dr.; 804-8008

$$-$$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Once strictly an excellent wine retailer, in 2003 the Verge family added a French menu to this hidden-in-the-Lakes bistro that attracts name chefs from the Strip. Enjoy tasty French standards, and heavenly imported cheeses in a casual, elegant setting overlooking a lake. Snag a bottle of wine from the shop and enjoy it with dinner for a $10 corkage--the city's best vino value.

Memphis Championship Barbecue

2250 E. Warm Springs Rd.; 260-6909

4379 Las Vegas Blvd. North; 644-0000

4949 N. Rancho Rd.; 396-6223

$; Casual

Barbecue is a big deal in the South, representing one of the few culinary arenas in which men willingly get their grill on, developing secret recipes that turn charring flesh into a militaristic science. This local low-key chain with a big following specializes in the national award winning dry-rub barbecue of chef-owner Mike Mills, who imports apple wood from Illinois to impart the signature flavor into baby back ribs, chicken, beef, hot links and chopped pork.

Omelet House

2160 W. Charleston Blvd.; 384-6868

$; Casual

An old-school favorite, the Omelet House is part dark, homey breakfast joint, part greasy spoon, and all small town atmosphere. The original central location is a haunt for long time Las Vegans of all stripes, who love the massive omelet selection and perhaps the longest breakfast menu in town. Suburban locations in Summerlin and Henderson.

Paymon's Mediterranean Café

4147 S. Maryland Parkway; 731-6030

8380 W. Sahara Ave.; 702-731-6030

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Before the local palate appreciated ethnic dining, Paymon Raouf was serving tasty tabouleh and fab falafel to the college crowd. As the city sophisticated, so went the Cafe, adding a Hookah Lounge (with full bar) and expanding the hours and menu. Lunch tables are prime real estate, dinner crowds pleasantly hip and articulate, with a casual sophistication hard to find in Vegas.

Rosemary's

8125 W. Sahara Ave.; 869-2251

3700 W. Flamingo Rd.; 777-2300

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

Tied for top New American in the 2004 Zagat, Rosemary's is an upscale American bistro by former Emeril chefs Michael and Wendy Jordan, serving five-star food at three star prices. Eschewing the comfort food trend, nothing is simple at this power lunch spot: rich New Orleans style infuses most of the choices, including BBQ Shrimp over Maytag Blue Cheese Slaw, White Peach & Prosciutto Salad, and parsnip and prosciutto scallops.

Tenaya Creek Restaurant & Brewery

3101 N. Tenaya Way; 362-7335

$-$$; Smart Casual

Tenaya Creek owns the kind of devoted following most other neighborhood restaurants wish for, and rightfully so. Operated by longtime local family the Etters, Tenaya Creek is more than just an elegant eatery serving a tasty menu of sophisticated dishes served with proper presentation. It's also an award-winning microbrewery. And a kitchen that completes the meal with amazing desserts (try the Bananas Foster). What more do you need?

James P. Reza is the dining editor of the Las Vegas edition of the 2004 Zagat Survey. Send your dining faves to jpreza@cox.net.