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Thursday, January 01, 2004 Eat: Recommended RestaurantsIn with the new
By James P. Reza
This week marks the one-year anniversary of introducing Eat to readers of the Mercury. In that time, we've directed you to hundreds of valley restaurants. This week, we shun our usual categorizing to simply bring you a group of restaurants we've never before listed. They may not be new to Las Vegas, but they are new to the Mercury.
Bonjour Casual French 8878 S. Eastern Ave.; 270-2102 $$$; Smart Casual Purists, take heart: Proprietors Marie and Bernard Calatayund hail from Cannes, so you know the food is authentic, while the service is uncharacteristically friendly--a welcome anomaly. A Green Valley neighborhood fave for several years, the delish French country fare and well-chosen wine list make Bonjour worth the drive from nearly anywhere in the valley.
The Buffet 129 E. Fremont St.; 385-7111 $-$$; Casual We would be remiss to ignore the buffet, and we find no shame in including the Golden Nugget's comfortable, cozy gem. Intimate and stylish, with service to match, the experience is much more old school than mess hall. The fresh fruit and desserts are excellent, breakfast delightful, the price is right and the value high--just like when the mob ran the city.
Cafe Heidelberg 610 E. Sahara Ave.; 731-5310 $$; Casual/Smart Casual Warm potato salad hasn't tasted this good since the Alpine Village Inn was demolished to make way for a parking lot, and we're happy Cafe Heidelberg, serving schnitzel from the same storefront since 1958, stuck around to carry on the tradition. Imported German biers wash down homeland specialties, either in the dining room or sidled up to the bar with the rest of the old-timers.
Como's Steakhouse 10 Via Brianza; 567-9950 $$$; Smart Casual Chef Josef Keller abandoned his Josef's Brasserie in the Desert Passage to open this upscale, intimate steakhouse in the Euro-styled Monte Lago Village at Lake Las Vegas, and anyone seeking a romantic, gold card night utterly away from Vegas should give it a go. Keller's signature frites made the geographical transition, while the wonderful steak and seafood is all new.
Gaylord's 3700 W. Flamingo Road; 777-2277 $$$; Smart Casual One more sign of our city's increasingly sophisticated dining scene, this--one of San Francisco's finest, and perhaps Sin City's first and only gourmet Indian eatery--launched last year in the unlikely Rio resort. Forget the idea that "ethnic" and "cheap" are typically tablemates; open your wallet and prepare to savor some of the best samosa, curry and kebabs you have ever tasted.
The Melting Pot 8704 W. Charleston Blvd.; 384-6358 $$-$$$; Smart Casual With stylish mags like WallPaper boosting fondue and folks indulging at trendsetting retro-house parties as early as 1999, the fondue restaurant proved not far behind. This stylish nationwide chain is perfect for a group of adventurous friends who harbor no fear of sharing. It's more expensive than you may think, and you'll need 2-3 hours to finish, but you'll enjoy every last dip.
Verandah 3960 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-5000 $$-$$$; Smart Casual On the Strip but a world away is the Four Seasons' relaxing casual escape. Hardly a coffee shop, the Verandah is the most posh, sophisticated "house restaurant" of any hotel in Vegas. Snag a table for lunch and you'll nosh California style with smart, old money; make a reservation for afternoon high tea and your mother will love you forever. 610 E. Sahara Ave.; 731-5310 $$; Casual/Smart Casual Warm potato salad hasn't tasted this good since the Alpine Village Inn was demolished to make way for a parking lot, and we're happy Cafe Heidelberg, serving schnitzel from the same storefront since 1958, stuck around to carry on the tradition. Imported German biers wash down homeland specialties, either in the dining room or sidled up to the bar with the rest of the old-timers.
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