Andre's

Thursday, January 15, 2004
Copyright © Las Vegas Mercury

Eat: Recommended Restaurants

Zagat it

By James P. Reza

There are plenty of guidebooks that tell you where you should eat and why, and, frankly, that's what we do right here every week. But the Zagat Survey puts the patron in the position of critic, allowing diners to rate restaurants they visit in a sort of proletariat version of the Michelin Guide. It's nice to turn to self-styled experts for guidance, but occasionally, we just want to know where our friends eat and why.

André's

401 S. Sixth St.; 385-5016

3770 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 798-7151

$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

Downtown revival? Bah. André Rochat has held fast in his central bungalow for two decades, a testament to the chef's tasty French haute cuisine. Foie gras is now almost commonplace, but frog legs are not. With a menu that explores the breadth of France and a wine list boasting 500-plus selections, Andre's has always been a reason to head north. Zagat says: Top Traditional French rating.

Aqua

3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 693-7223

$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

Seafood in the desert should not be this impressive, but when it's from a branch of San Francisco's famed Aqua, who's to question? Sequestered in the Bellagio is the city's best (and priciest) fish joint, Michael Mina's almost conceited room where a lobster truffle gnocchi is really no big deal. Zagat says: Top Seafood rating.

Bradley Ogden

3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South ; 731-7413

$$$-$$$$; Smart Casual

San Francisco chef Bradley Ogden, a champion of high-end nouveau cuisine, is always in the kitchen at his ninth eatery right here in Las Vegas. Located just outside Celine Dion's Colosseum (supposedly, if you can pay the price for Celine, you can afford Bradley's), Bradley Ogden has the attention of the power lunchers with its clubby atmosphere and closely attended menu. Zagat says: tied for Top New American with Rosemary's.

Commander's Palace

3667 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 892-8272

$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

An amazing New Orleans favorite that no one should take for granted, Commander's Palace is the place to enjoy the food that made the Big Easy so easy to live with. Crab salads and shrimp remoulade and veal chop and fresh fish... It ain't N'Awlins unless it's rich and packed with flavor, and the weekend jazz brunch proves it with pecan crusted catfish, beignets, Gulf shrimp sugarcane skewers and more. Zagat says: Top Breakfast rating.

Mayflower Cuisinier

4750 W. Sahara Ave.; 870-8432

$$$; Smart Casual

An unusual French-influenced upscale Chinese restaurant in a strip mall, Mayflower was one of the first undiscovered greats of Las Vegas when it opened in 1991. An elegant atmosphere debunks the stereotype of low-rent Chinese, as does your final check, but fans say it's worth it for the carefully tended fusion specialties. Zagat says: Top Chinese rating.

Metro Pizza

1395 E. Tropicana Ave.; 736-1955

4001 S. Decatur Blvd.; 362-7896

4178 Koval Lane; 312-5888

$; Casual

A local pizza joint that capitalized on its success and expanded, Metro remains the populist favorite--the one non-national chain place where everyone knows you can get a good pizza or calzone. Crusts of varying thickness are available, but we prefer the extra-thin, crispy crust of the basil-heavy Olde New York. Ellis Island location open until 2 a.m. Zagat says: Top Pizza rating.

Nobu

4455 Paradise Road; 693-5090

$$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Among global foodie cognoscenti, sex and sushi are symbiotic, so it makes perfect sense that chef Nobu Matsuhisa would locate Nobu in the Hard Rock Hotel, the Vegas epicenter of the sexy and stylish. The food is a fusion of Asian and South American, the decor implies an updated yet clichéd Japanese village. Hey, is that De Niro? Zagat says: Top rating in Japanese, tied with Renoir for top Hotel Dining & Overall Food.

Rosemary's

8125 W. Sahara Ave.; 869-2251

3700 W. Flamingo Road; 777-2300

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

Rosemary's is an upscale American bistro by former Emeril chefs Michael and Wendy Jordan. Eschewing the comfort food trend, nothing is simple at this power lunch spot. Rich New Orleans style infuses most of the choices, including BBQ Shrimp over Maytag Blue Cheese Slaw, White Peach & Prosciutto Salad, and parsnip and prosciutto scallops. Zagat says: tied for Top New American rating with Bradley Ogden.

Sterling Sunday Brunch

3645 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 947-4661

$$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

No matter how good the Bellagio buffet (rated top Eclectic by Zagat), it still fails to capture the experience of the Sunday brunches once held in the glorious tiered showrooms of Vegas past. Bally's Sterling Brunch--in an intimate room replete with ice sculptures and sharply attired staff attending your every need--is the quintessential brunch. Here, you'll gorge on selections so good--chateaubriand, beef medallions--you'll hardly believe you can refill your plate as much as you like. Zagat says: Top Brunch rating.

James P. Reza is the dining editor of the Las Vegas edition of the 2004 Zagat Survey. Have a hot dining tip? Send it to jpreza@cox.net.