Skillet Cafe

Thursday, January 22, 2004
Copyright © Las Vegas Mercury

Eat: Recommended Restaurants

Undiscovered country

By James P. Reza

We hesitate to call them holes-in-the-wall, for few of them adhere to the dingy stereotype, and many shatter it to shreds. Most of them are just unheralded little places that do just fine without celeb chefs, million-dollar interiors and $10 drinks. How do they do it? Usually it's the food and the prices, less often the service, that attracts the neighborhood folks. These are the kinds of places friends take you for lunch and you think, "I wish this was near my house."

Broadway Pizzeria

850 S. Rancho Drive; 259-9002

$; Casual

An unassuming storefront, just the way a good Nu Yawk pizzeria should be. Centrally located, Broadway Pizzeria has become the favorite Italian takeout joint for the Escalade moms from the nearby pricey 'hoods, as well as a hopping spot for the downtown lunch bunch. The deep dish is good, but we prefer the thin crust.

El Sombrero Cafe

807 S. Main St.; 382-9234

$; Casual

Since 1950, El Sombrero has been the archetypical Mexican hole-in-the-wall. A tiny storefront in a part of town most suburbanites ignorantly avoid, El Sombrero is still owned by the same bloodline that launched it. The food is classic Mex-American: cheap, good eats overflowing the plate. Weekday lunches are consistently busy.

Komol

953 E. Sahara Ave.; 731-6542

$; Casual

This unassuming hole-in-the-wall ranks among the favorite eateries of the hepcat set. It's unpretentious and inexpensive, and offers substantial vegetarian choices on its Thai-centric menu. Oddly (or perhaps not), Chinese-American comfort food such as egg foo yung is also available, and you are bound to find a friend or two while dining here.

Food Express

2003 S. Decatur Blvd.; 870-1595

$; Casual/Smart Casual

The authenticity of an Asian restaurant is said to be measured by the gringo ratio; here it runs about 1-to-10, where busloads of jonesing Asian tourists often descend on this unassuming joint. The daily menu boards are handwritten in Chinese characters, though a printed menu concedes to English. Get past the sometimes surly attitude to get at the good food, served until 2 a.m. every night.

Huntridge Drug Restaurant

1122 E. Charleston Blvd.; 384-3737

$; Casual

Remnants of small-town Vegas are hard to find, but this family-run drugstore food counter puts those oversized discount store chains to shame when it comes to atmosphere. If you are accustomed to 1950s hybrid Chinese-American food (tomato chow mein, egg foo yung), then Bill Fong's unassuming diner is the place to get it.

Skillet Cafe

3923 W. Charleston Blvd.; 877-9083

$; Casual

To call it a greasy spoon does it a disservice; a "classic small-town lunch counter" would be more accurate. Daily-made soups are a favorite of the Vegas old-timers, solo lunchers and residents from the nearby Westleigh and McNeil Estates who frequent the place. Burgers and sandwiches (try the egg salad on toasted sourdough) also come off well.

Pita Place

3429 S. Jones. Blvd.; 221-9955

$; Casual

Inexpensive and delicious, the Pita Place--located in a converted old-style Taco Bell--is the kind of ethnic dining other cities sport in spades. Considered one of the city's largely undiscovered gems, the unassuming Pita Place serves delicious Middle Eastern salads, kabobs and falafel, and offers all its food for take-out.

Polonez

1243 E. Sahara Ave.; 369-1556

$-$$; Casual

With 11 Eastern European brews, a menu of Iron Curtain specialties and a fancy interior and patio, Polonez is raising the bar for Commercial Center eateries. Keilbasa, goulash, golbki...it's all here and it's mostly delish, though, unless you speak Polish, you may have trouble getting it to your table. First-timers should go for the Polish Platter sampler.

Promarres Thai Food

6362 W. Sahara Ave.; 221-9644

$; Casual

This tiny, family-run storefront does a great deal of take-out business, though that should not dissuade you from stopping in and grabbing one of the few small tables. Thanks to the folks who run the place, the food is authentic Thai (though they will temper the hot peppers if you ask). We like the Pad Thai noodles, vegetable curry, Thai iced tea and the prices.

Thai BBQ

1424 S. Third St.; 383-1128

$; Casual

This longtime Vegas eatery has made a name for itself by satisfying the take-out urges of many a lunching downtown cube farmer, and is the place many in town savored their first taste of Thai iced tea and coffee. The namesake barbecue is tasty, the satay very good, and the soup a nice alternative. Be careful what and how you order; this food can be hot.

James P. Reza is the dining editor of the Las Vegas edition of the 2004 Zagat Survey. Have a hot dining tip? Send it to jpreza@cox.net.