Eat: Recommended Restaurants

Burgers and barbecue, dawg

By James P. Reza

The heat is on, the cicadas are buzzing and our grilling genes are firing up to buy lighter fluid. Must be Fourth of July--the one holiday in which Americans willingly set aside their increasingly special interests to celebrate our unlikely confluence of political, religious and social differences that make our country the most influential clusterfuck on the planet. If the idea of dad presiding over a three-alarm backyard fire in an apron doesn't sit right with you, no worries. Here's a few places where all those Main Street U.S.A.-types get their grub.

Bono's

2501 E. Tropicana Ave.; 456-6248

310 E. Warm Springs Road; 360-3335

$; Casual

This unassuming east-side joint has been serving what it calls "real Chicago food" to Vegas for more than two decades. Da menu reads a little American (burgers, fingers), a little Italian (spaghetti, Scalas Italian Beef sandwiches) and all Windy City. Many stop just for the Vienna dogs and snap dogs, smothered in giardinerra (an addictive mix of jalapeños, chili, crushed red peppers & celery).

Chicago Hot Dog

1078 N. Rancho Drive; 647-3647

$; Casual

A converted A&W Root Beer stand in an urban shopping center, CHD prides itself on its Chi-Town heritage. All ingredients (including the Vienna dogs) are shipped from Chicago, and the menu even includes a "Maxwell Street": grilled Polish sausage smothered with mustard and onion on a poppy seed bun. Or savor brats, Italian beef 'wiches, patty melts and even Soakers (Gonella bread soaked in Italian gravy) while watching da Bulls and da Bears.

Hot Dog Heaven

87 E. Lake Mead Drive; 567-5050

$; Casual

The perfect hot dog stand, parked just this side of Boulder Highway on Lake Mead, snagged our attention while driving around with a Chicago native. "Stop! That was the name of my favorite place back home!" Who needs celeb-chef frou frou when a loaded Vienna dog, packed with pickles and peppers, will do the trick. If you are tired of everything in Vegas overreaching, check out this genuine joint; even Celine Dion is said to slum it here.

In-N-Out Burger

2900 W. Sahara Ave.; 800-786-1000

(and four other locations)

$; Casual

This now-ubiquitous chain once owned the coolest renegade bumper sticker alteration ever, the "In-N-Out Urge" that simply screamed Southern California. There are even Gen X Las Vegans who would drive to Cali just to get a bag of burgers to bring back to their friends. Consequently, when the chain arrived with its freshly fried beef, fries and real ice cream shakes, its success was immediate. There is even an off-the-menu culture of specialty items (grilled cheese, "animal-style" burgers) you have to know about to order.

Memphis Championship Barbecue

2250 E. Warm Springs Road; 260-6909

4379 Las Vegas Blvd. North; 644-0000

4949 N. Rancho Drive; 396-6223

$; Casual

Barbecue is a big deal in the South, representing one of the few culinary arenas in which men willingly get their grill on, developing secret recipes that turn charring flesh into a militaristic science. This low-key chain with a big following specializes in the national award-winning dry-rub barbecue of chef-owner Mike Mills, who imports apple wood from Illinois to impart the signature flavor into baby back ribs, chicken, beef, hot links and chopped pork.

Fatburger

3763 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 736-4733

(and nine other locations)

$; Casual

Many late nights we have found ourselves seeking that post-gin nourishment, and too often found it in a burrito cheaper than a gumball. No more, we say. Instead, roll into the 24-hour drive-through of one of these ubiquitous fried burger joints and enjoy thick-as-cement real ice cream shakes, fried egg-on-toast sandwiches or the fattest burger your mama ever made. Hangover, away!

Kilroy's

1021 S. Buffalo Drive; 363-4933

4340 S. Grand Canyon Drive; 367-3184

$; Casual

A nondescript stucco box behind a 7-Eleven--your typical Vegas architecture--hides what is actually a spacious west-side neighborhood bar and grill. It's dark and the booths are deep, reminding you that this is a place for grownups, and they come in droves for what was long considered the best burger in town: a sloppy half-pound of grilled American beef cooked to order. Competitors soon followed Kilroy's lead, but they are still among the best.

Tommy Rocker's Cantina & Grill

4275 Industrial Road; 261-6688

10050 S. Eastern Ave.; 933-6333

$-$$; Casual

Somewhat of a local legend, musician Tommy Rocker has created a mainstream subculture around his funny (and enjoyable) Stones-to-Buffett bar band routine and the three joints in which he practices it. That said, even people who avoid a TR happy hour like a colonoscopy still stop for what some call the best burger menu in town. From the expected (jalapeños) to the exotic (pineapple), these burgers are never plain--unless you like 'em like that.

James P. Reza is the dining editor of the 2004 Zagat Survey: Las Vegas. Haven't seen your fave nosh joint listed? Tip him off at jpreza@cox.net.