Eat: Recommended Restaurants

The pizza puzzle

By James P. Reza

If you aren't one of those Atkins-modified robots, pizza just might be the perfect food. A warm, crispy carb bottom supports a salty, sloppy tomato sauce that is the perfect foil to the vegetable and meat toppings. The whole mess is then plastered together with cheese into something that often can be eaten with your beer-free hand, adding inches to your American waistline. Regional varieties of this Neapolitan export make certain that everyone has a fave.

BJ's Brewhouse

10840 W. Charleston Blvd.; 853-2300

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Now with 33 locations (22 in SoCal), BJ's is in Las Vegas intent on recapturing the fans it lost in the great California migration. Opened near the beltway last month, BJ's, predictably, has been very busy during all but its late-night hours (open until midnight Fridays, 1 a.m. Saturdays). The chilled salads are nice, the burgers (including a veggie option) tasty and they even have grilled salmon, but it's the delish deep dish Chicago-style pizza that gets your attention. Oh, and the microbrews. The Las Vegas location (which they haughtily refer to as "Summerlin") currently ships its brews from the chain's Chandler, Ariz., brewpub, but the coming Henderson (undoubtedly to be called "Green Valley") shop will feature on-premise brewing. The open dining room is surprisingly welcoming given its size, but the background music choices can charitably be called uninspiring. We prefer the bar area, with high seating, sports on three big screens and rapid access to the tap.

Broadway Pizzeria

850 S. Rancho Drive; 259-9002

$; Casual

"Hey, how you doin', chief?" Greeted thusly by Mario or Anthony the moment the door swings wide to this unassuming storefront, you know this is a good Nu Yawk pizzeria. Centrally located, Broadway Pizzeria has become the favorite Italian takeout joint for the Navigator moms from the nearby pricey 'hoods, as well as a hopping spot for the downtown lunch bunch. The deep dish is good, but when we slop down a slice of thin crust, fuggedaboudit.

Bootlegger Bistro

7700 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 736-4939

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

This 24-hour institution serves some of the best Southern Italian food in town. The pizza, particularly the Basilico (sliced tomatoes and basil), features fresh ingredients spread just heavily enough on what may be the tastiest crispy crust (medium thickness) in town. Typically, this bistro bustles with cooing couples and smartly dressed families, but on the weekends, when '50s-era Strip entertainers perform, it's a Who's Who of Old and Nouveau Vegas.

Capozzoli's

3333 Maryland Parkway; 731-5311

$-$$; Casual

Though serving a full menu of solid southern Italian food, the pizza (as well as the late-night entertainment, which sometimes includes post-show Strip entertainers) is the main reason to visit Capozzoli's. Everyone has his favorite pizza, and many consider this to be the place that serves it, on a medium, chewy crust.

Metro Pizza

1395 E. Tropicana Ave.; 736-1955

4001 S. Decatur Blvd.; 362-7896

4178 Koval Lane; 312-5888

$; Casual

Zagat's Best Pizza for 2004, this local joint capitalized on its success and expanded. Still, Metro remains a populist favorite--the one non-chain place where everyone knows you can get a good pizza or calzone. Crusts of varying thickness are available, but we prefer the extra-thin, crispy crust of the basil-heavy Olde New York. Ellis Island location open until 2 a.m.

Montesano's Italian Deli

3441 W. Sahara Ave.; 876-0348

4835 W. Craig Road; 656-3708

$; Casual

One visit illustrates why Montesano's has grown from a small storefront deli to a bustling diner. The menu is a mishmash of tasty New York Italian dishes. The pizzas are mostly delicious, but some can be rich, so choose carefully. If you are the type who likes to dip your warm crust in ranch dressing, this is the place to do it.

Nora's Cuisine

6020 W. Flamingo Road; 365-6713

$; Casual

First a pizzeria, then a small, full-menu, full-service restaurant. Sound familiar? Serving great food for better prices, Nora's has built a solid following thanks to the family's delicious pizza and traditional Italian recipes.

Northside Nathan's

7531 W. Lake Mead Blvd.; 255-8822

$; Casual

Summerlin was starved for a very good, very casual pizzeria until Nathan's arrived from Detroit several years back. Typical of East Coast pizzerias--order at the window, drink at the bar, play the arcade, watch the big screen--Nathan's is dark, comfy and family-friendly. The deep dish square is the way to go here.

Native Las Vegan James P. Reza is the dining editor of the 2004 Zagat Survey: Las Vegas. Haven't seen your fave nosh joint listed? Tip him off at jpreza@cox.net.