Eat: Recommended Restaurants

The nosh hotel

By James P. Reza

We all dream of a Las Vegas in which a variety of unique dining and nightlife choices beckon from beyond the walls of the casino-resorts and out into the suburbs. But with a few notable exceptions, most of what we find out there are middling chains that do little beyond making Las Vegas look and feel like one big interstate off-ramp. The times they are a-changing, yes, but at least for now, most of our best experiences still reside somewhat incongruously amid the clang and chatter of our unusual brand of commerce.

Aureole

3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-7777

$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

In a room where the design threatens to strip the food of its adoration, Aureole nevertheless overcomes the commanding Mission: Impossible steel-and-glass wine tower to serve excellent nouveau American cuisine. If you like wine with your foie gras and fancy yourself among the design elite, this is where you should sip.

Canter's Deli

3300 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 894-7111

$; Casual

Canter's proves the cliché that Vegas is truly "Little L.A." with this outpost of the landmark 1931 family-run kosher deli. Perfect for a City of Angels fix that doesn't involve celeb chefs, Canter's specializes in old-school deli sandwiches piled high with a half-pound of pastrami and corned beef, fresh made pickles and baked goods, plus the "Jewish penicillin," chicken matzoh ball soup.

Commander's Palace

3667 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 892-8272

$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

An amazing New Orleans favorite that no one should take for granted, Commander's Palace is the place to enjoy the food that made the Big Easy so easy to live with. Crab salads and shrimp remoulade and veal chop and fresh fish. ... It ain't N'Awlins unless it is rich and packed with flavor.

Four Grand

3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 891-1111

For the past few years, the MGM Grand has focused on significantly updating what had become a rather pedestrian restaurant row. The brilliant but underattended Neyla became Michael Mina's SeaBlue, the tired Olio morphed into Stephen Hansen's Fiamma, and the Brown Derby was tipped off for Tom Colicchio's Craftsteak. The dramatic second phase of this revamp came in the form of four new eateries in the past several weeks at the MGM. Leading the charge was a recast of the Wolfgang Puck Cafe into the Wolfgang Puck Bar & Grill ($$-$$$). The completely redesigned space--a California bungalow style by Tony Chi--remains open to the surrounding casino, and the menu reads like Spago-lite. Around the corner, where Mark Miller's Coyote Cafe once stood, the style and energy of Tokyo beckons from Shibuya ($$$$), which offers mod Japanese cooking from three traditional choices (sushi bar, teppan table, dining room). Further along the row, beyond Emeril's just-remodeled New Orleans Fish House, local middlebrow fave Ricardo's (which has reopened at Flamingo and Decatur) has been replaced with Diego ($$-$$$), featuring an upscale traditional Mexican menu. Showcasing ingredients such as squash blossoms, cactus, and roasted goat, Diego is not a place for those seeking combination plates. And finally, catering to a more casual crowd (but one that takes its sandwiches very seriously) is an outpost of Tom Collichio's NYC sandwich shop, 'Wichcraft ($-$$), where house-roasted pork loin (with mustard on ciabatta) and Sicilian tuna (on a crusty baguette) elevate the experience.

Le Cirque

3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 693-8100

$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

Consistently named one of Vegas' best nosheries, Sirio Maccioni's Le Cirque is a beautiful room evoking a million-dollar circus tent. When it opened, Le Cirque felt decidedly out of place in Vegas (as did almost anything with a New York pedigree). Vegas has changed but thankfully Le Cirque has not, still serving rich French-inspired cuisine (rack of lamb, rabbit) to rich, cash-inspired diners. Here, menu descriptions require paragraphs ("Black Sea Bass in Crispy Potatoes with Braised Leeks and Barolo Sauce"), and diners require jackets.

Mon Ami Gabi

3655 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 946-4433

$$-$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

There are few Vegas places that were as quickly adopted by the power lunch and society gal set as this French sidewalk cafe on the Strip. Upscale al fresco is clearly underserved in Vegas, for even the platinum prices don't keep people from using the Strip-view tables as dealmakers--just as on the real Champs Elysées. A steak fritte, a glass of wine...you are Bardot in waiting.

Native Las Vegan James P. Reza is the dining editor of the 2004 Zagat Survey: Las Vegas. Haven't seen your fave nosh joint listed? Tip him off at jpreza@cox.net.