Eat: Recommended Restaurants

Al fresco

By James P. Reza

Something our harsh Mojave Desert climate makes difficult the coveted outdoor nosh. We're not talking about the faux "outdoor" settings provided by themed shopping complexes (though those can be enjoyable too). We mean honest al fresco muncho, under the bright blue (or starry) sky. Admittedly, we're a little ahead of the curve here, but soon enough we will hit the apex of outdoor dining season in Southern Nevada, defined by the cool days, crisp nights, still air and low humidity of October.

Border Grill

3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-7402

$$; Smart Casual

"Too Hot Tamales" chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger are famous for taking the street foods of southern Mexico and reworking them to define progressive Southwestern cuisine. Don't expect a plate slathered with beans and rice; instead, menu choices include a variety of ceviche (cold-cooked fish), plantain empañadas, tamales, tacos and more. Outdoor tables in the Mandalay Bay pool area make lunch a tropical excursion.

Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba

3200 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 298-1211

$-$$$; Smart Causal/Trendy

This authentically flavored Spanish tapas bar opened Thursday as the latest effort from the Lettuce Entertain You restaurant group (Mon Ami Gabi, Eiffel Tower and 29 others nationwide). Located on the Strip across from Wynn Las Vegas, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba is the first of several new eateries to open in the northeast corner of the Fashion Show Mall. Indoors, the restaurant is oh-so-Mediterranean, all dark woods and massive chandeliers. It's very well done, thoughtful design being a hallmark of Lettuce Entertain You. Outdoor seating comprises two areas, a kinetic patio overlooking the semi-public piazza fronting the mall, and a somewhat secluded area on the north side. Indoors, a bustling central bar serves the entire menu (making four total seating choices available), a specialty drink menu, plus several delicious varieties of refreshing sangria that we highly recommend. Sure, there are entrees on the menu, but the reason to nosh here is to sample and share the dozens of hot (jalapeño shrimp, olive crusted halibut, fried green peppers) and cold (tortilla española, lobster cocktail) tapas available, not to mention one of the five varieties of paella. Combined with its on-the-spot location, sexy design and "hot new thing" vibe, Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba is sure to be a hit with those fashionistas who valet more often than not.

Como's Steakhouse

10 Via Brianza; 567-9950

$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Chef Josef Keller (Thomas's brother) operates this intimate, jazz-infused steakhouse in the Euro-styled Monte Lago Village at Lake Las Vegas, and anyone seeking a romantic, gold-card night utterly away from Vegas should give it a go. Keller's signature frittes made the geographical transition from his closed Aladdin brasserie, while the wonderful steak and seafood is all new. Steakhouses haven't provided escapism like this since Bob Taylor's was a half-hour from civilization; snag an outdoor table and you're on the Med.

Firefly Tapas Kitchen

3900 Paradise Road; 369-3971

$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Mon Ami Gabi alumnus John Simmons and Ramon Triay addressed Las Vegas' previous lack of the popular tapas bar concept with this new late-night hangout. Sure, you can order from a full plate menu, but that is counterintuitive to the tapas experience. Instead, gather a group of friends and choose from dozens of small plates designed for sharing, such as tortilla española, beef skewers and artichoke toasts. Nosh until 3 a.m.

Jazzed Cafe & Vinoteca

8615 W. Sahara Ave.; 233-2859

$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Calling itself "your urban-style neighborhood restaurant," this bustling suburban bistro in The Lakes overflows with local soul. Top-notch northern Italian cuisine (chef/owner Kirk Offerle has nearly perfected the hand-stirred-to-order risotto; be sure to sample to the current lobster specialty) tempts an urbane clientele who enjoy being bathed in live jazz and local art. The indoor eclectic decor evokes sensuality, while the candlelit patio tables add to the allure.

Kona Grill

750 S. Rampart Blvd.; 547-5552

$$; Casual/Trendy

The west side's hopping spot for Summerlin's hippest and clove-smoking boomers hails from Scottsdale yet feels like Kon Tiki California by way of Palm Springs. Everything from surf 'n' turf to pasta, sushi and a pretty decent pizza are available, with one of the best half-price happy hour menus we've enjoyed. The plasma-screened indoor-outdoor bar area is where the restless congregate, and the staff is oh-so-Hollywood: They're sexy and they try hard.

Milo's Best Cellars

538 Nevada Hwy.; 293-9540

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

In the old downtown quarter of Boulder City, Milo's offers 23 wines by the glass, a longer list of beer and ale, and a retail wall of 100 bottles of wine under $10. A modest $10 corkage fee will pop the top for you to enjoy your selection with the short but satisfying menu of salads, delicious panini and masterful cheese and fruit plates--perfect foils to the vino.

Mon Ami Gabi

3655 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 946-4433

$$-$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

There are few Vegas places that were as quickly adopted by the power lunch and society gal set as this French sidewalk cafe on the Strip. Upscale al fresco is clearly underserved in Vegas, for even the platinum prices don't keep people from using the Strip-view tables as dealmakers--just as on the real Champs Elysées. A steak fritte, a glass of wine...you are Bardot in waiting.

Native Las Vegan James P. Reza is the dining editor of the 2004 Zagat Survey: Las Vegas. Haven't seen your fave nosh joint listed? Tip him off at jpreza@cox.net.