Eat: Recommended Restaurants

Where we eat

By James P. Reza

In the 20 months since introducing Eat to readers of the Mercury, we've directed you to hundreds of valley restaurants as entertainingly and meaningful as possible in 60 words or less. This week, we shun our usual critical categorizing to simply bring you a group of eateries we have been enjoying a lot lately, for a variety of reasons. Some of them are new(ish), some are old, all are current faves.

Wolfgang Puck Bar & Grill

3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 891-3000

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

The MGM's Wolfgang Puck Cafe wasn't recently remodeled, it was completely remade into this, a new restaurant designed in California bungalow style by Tony Chi (Noodles). Like its predecessor, the Bar & Grill is almost entirely open to the surrounding casino, and there are few (if any) barriers to isolate diners from the gaming floor. Intimate it is not, but it certainly makes sense as the MGM tries to youth itself up with energetic new bars and restaurants. While the menu here may read like Spago-lite to the Puck-less, we find that it's a wonderful combination of Spago's traditions (wood-fired pesto shrimp pizza), Lupo's Italian influences (ricotta gnocchi) and some fresh new dishes (chargrilled salmon with cappellini, grilled Mediterranean chopped vegetable salad). The kinetic energy, casual sophistication and worthy food make this a favored stop before a concert, show or night at the clubs.

BJ's Brewhouse

10840 W. Charleston Blvd.; 853-2300

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Hardly the intimate beachside bistro of Laguna Beach, BJ's of Vegas is a faux-industrial warehouse packed with the kind of value-seeking Summerlinites who shunned Tre. Chilled salads are nice, the burgers (including a veggie option) tasty and they even have grilled salmon, but it's the delish deep-dish Chicago-style pizza and microbrews that command attention. We prefer the bar area, with high seating, sports on three big screens and rapid access to the tap.

Bouchon

3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 414-6200

$$$-$$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Open just a short time, Thomas Keller's Venetian resort outpost of his Napa Valley fave is already on the radar of those seeking discreet ostentation. Designed by the renowned Adam Tihany in classic French bistro style, Bouchon offers an upscale power breakfast every morning, plus classic bistro fare (pan-seared, braised and roasted meats and fish) at dinner.

Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba

3200 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 298-1211

$-$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

This stylish Spanish tapas bar boasts a kinetic patio overlooking the Fashion Show's semi-public Strip-side piazza, plus a somewhat secluded one on the north side. Indoors, a bustling bar serves the entire menu, a specialty drink selection, plus several delicious varieties of refreshing sangria. Skip the entrees and share from dozens of hot (jalapeño shrimp, olive crusted halibut, fried green peppers) and cold (tortilla española, lobster cocktail) tapas.

Diego

3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 891-1111

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

Designed by the award-winning Vincente Wolfe, Diego is expansive, modern and colorful, the kind of eatery you might find in Mexico City's vibrant Zona Rosa. The ever-changing menu showcases squash blossoms, cactus and roasted goat, but even the less adventurous will find something to enjoy from a satisfying selection of small plates designed for sharing (crab empañadas, tamales), as well as a few entrees (chile rellenos, grilled fish).

Fix

3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 693-7223

$$-$$$; Trendy

With a dark, edgy interior from L.A./Berlin design group Graft and an upscale American menu, Fix is the Bellagio equivalent of N9NE and Simon. The well-executed menu visits no new ground with its wood-fired surf 'n' turf; the surprises are the "Bobby Baldwin Burgers" (a plate of three Kobe sliders, costing nearly a Jackson), the "Forks" (smoked salmon and caviar poppers) and the freshly fried potato chips with blue cheese dressing.

Marche Bacchus

2620 Regatta Drive; 804-8008

$$-$$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Once strictly an excellent wine retailer, in 2003 the Verge family added a French menu to this hidden-in-the-Lakes bistro that attracts name chefs from the Strip. Enjoy tasty French standards, and heavenly imported cheeses in a casual, elegant setting overlooking a lake. Snag a bottle of wine from the shop and enjoy it with dinner for a $10 corkage--the city's best vino value.

Milo's Best Cellars

538 Nevada Highway; 293-9540

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

In the old downtown quarter of Boulder City, Milo's offers 23 wines by the glass, a longer list of beer and ale and a retail wall of 100 bottles of wine under $10. A modest $10 corkage fee will pop the top for you to enjoy your selection with the short but satisfying menu of salads, delicious panini and masterful cheese and fruit plates--perfect foils to the vino.

Verandah

3960 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-5000

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

On the Strip but a world away is the Four Seasons' relaxing casual escape. Hardly a coffee shop, the Verandah is the most posh, sophisticated "house restaurant" of any hotel in Vegas, especially after its recent freshening. Snag a table for lunch and you'll nosh California style with smart, old money; we adore the Sunday brunch for its unmatched quality.

Tinoco's Bistro

103 E. Charleston Blvd.; 868-0430

310 E. Warm Springs Road; 263-7880

$$; Smart Casual

A continental bistro in the most unexpected of places, Tinoco's Italian-influenced menu serves big-city food to an urbane and urban crowd. The small, semi-industrial space in the Arts Factory carries a very New York vibe, with its hand-painted tables, stained concrete block walls and exposed ducts. Don't let the location fool you: the food here--from incredible soups to Chilean sea bass--is decidedly delicious and not as cheap as you may expect.

Native Las Vegan James P. Reza is the dining editor of the 2004 Zagat Survey: Las Vegas. Haven't seen your fave nosh joint listed? Tip him off at jpreza@cox.net.