You Gotta Eat: Ricardo's

El comeback: Longtime Mexican favorite Ricardo's returns

By Brock Radke

Despite our wondrous dining options and proximity to the border, Las Vegas is frequently chided by critics for its lack of good Mexican food. The never-ending arrival of celebrity chefs may satisfy such picky eaters, but we longtime locals know there are plenty of great taco shops and neighborhood favorites that have been stuffing us with beans and rice for years.

Ricardo's is one such favorite. Originally opened in the Meadows Mall in 1979, the restaurant had at one time expanded to include locations on Eastern Avenue, Flamingo Road and an incredibly popular site for locals and tourists alike in the MGM Grand. Over time, owner Robert Ancara sold off some locations; others closed when their leases expired, eventually leading to Ricardo's extinction. But Ancara re-acquired the Renaissance Center site and reopened it in June, much to the delight of locals who happily return to pack the house, munch chips and salsa and drain margaritas.

The restaurant, originally opened in 1987, maintains the fiesta-friendly, pastel-colored décor you'd expect, complete with murals on the walls and Mexican tiled floors. Comfortable booths and tables create a cozy, family-style atmosphere. Since many staff members returned to Ricardo's after the locations they worked at closed, you're almost guaranteed to get a cheerful, experienced server.

The margaritas are as good as you can get, with flavors ranging from the sweet and popular strawberry to the more exotic guava and prickly pear. All go down smoothly with the ever-present warm, salty corn chips and the house's two salsa varieties. A wide variety of Mexican beers and fine tequilas are also available.

Like the restaurant's reliable appearance, its menu holds little surprises but just as few disappointments. You won't find any trendy Mexi-fusion or blue corn whatevers here; it's nothing but what gringos have come to know and love of Mexican and Tex-Mex cuisine. There are some baja-inspired fish dishes like the spicy camarones a la diabla ($18.95), but you're better off ignoring the seafood and sticking to what Ricardo's does best. Among the endless variations of fajitas, enchiladas and burritos, the pork dishes stand out, especially the tender, roasted carnitas ($13.95) and the chile verde ($12.50), some slow-simmered pig with onions, chilis and tomatillos. You can't beat a lunch consisting of this stuff in burrito form ($9.95) and an ice cold Pacifico.

Ricardo's offers virtually the same menu as other favorites around town, but the prices are affordable and many of the menu items--such as the perfectly spiced Albondigas soup ($2.95) and the house specialty chicken in wine and butter with avocado and melted cheese ($13.50)--are simply better executed here, and in a less greasy fashion. It makes sense that this lone Ricardo's is doing better business now than ever. After all, they've been at it in Las Vegas for more than 25 years.