Thursday, February 17, 2005
Copyright © Las Vegas Mercury

Eat 100 (ITALIAN/PIZZA - SURF 'N' TURF)

ITALIAN/PIZZA

Bootlegger Bistro

7700 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 736-4939

$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Typically, this 24/7 bistro bustles with cooing couples and smartly dressed families, but at weekends it's a Who's Who of Old and Noveau Vegas enjoying live entertainment. At the swing shift, sit with the city's best servers and strippers in the lounge, sampling the satisfying Southern Italian selections. Why: Step into old-school Vegas.

Broadway Pizzeria

850 S. Rancho Drive; 259-9002

$; Casual

"Hey, how you doin', chief?" Greeted thusly by Mario or Anthony the moment the door swings wide to this unassuming storefront, you know this is a good Nu Yawk pizzeria. At the favorite Italian takeout joint for the Navigator moms from the nearby pricey 'hoods. Why: The deep dish is good, but when we slop down a slice of thin crust, fuggedaboudit.

Capozzoli's

3333 Maryland Parkway; 731-5311

$-$$; Casual

Though serving a full menu of standard southern Italian food 24/7, the pizza is the main reason to visit Capozzoli's. Everyone has his favorite pie, and many consider this to be the place that serves it, on a medium, chewy crust. Why: The late-night entertainment sometimes includes post-show Strip entertainers.

Chicago Joe's

820 S. Fourth St.; 382-5637

$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Ensconced since the early 1980s in a diminutive 1932 brick bungalow, Joe's serves southern Italian cooking, Chicago style, in a comfortably intimate atmosphere. Tasty signatures include spicy Lobster Joe and stuffed artichokes to offset the red sauce pasta. Why: Urban, romantic and affordable.

Fellini's

5555 W. Charleston Blvd.; 870-9999

(also in Sam's Town and Stratosphere)

$$$-$$$$; Smart Casual

You keep hearing about this elusive "old Vegas feel," and you wonder where you can find it. Wonder no more; in 1998, one of Sin City's oldest pizza places (it was once a Shakey's) was repurposed as an upscale southern Italian joint where the mover/shaker crowd provides the atmosphere. Enjoy a deep antipasti menu, extensive wine and scotch list and delicious entrees--but don't sit with your back to the door. Why: Isn't that the mayor?

Fiamma Trattoria

3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 891-7600

$$-$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

SoHo restaurateur Stephen Hanson's MGM Grand flame is a sister to Manhattan's Fiamma Osteria. The ever-changing the menu sports Italian faves from pasta to surf 'n' turf (grilled swordfish, sea bass, ravioli), but save room for the freshly fried doughnut dessert. Why: Good bar scene, better food.

Jazzed Cafe & Vinoteca

8615 W. Sahara Ave.; 233-2859

$$-$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

This bustling suburban bistro in The Lakes overflows with local soul, and top-notch northern Italian cuisine tempts an urbane clientele who enjoy being bathed in live jazz, local art and a lovingly tended wine list. Fresh banana crepes and Illy espresso finish any meal in style. Why: Nearly perfect hand-stirred-to-order risotto.

Metro Pizza

1395 E. Tropicana Ave.; 736-1955

4001 S. Decatur Blvd.; 362-7896

4178 Koval Lane; 312-5888

$; Casual

A local pizza joint that capitalized on its success and expanded, Metro remains the populist favorite--the one non-chain place where everyone knows you can get a good pizza or calzone. Crusts of varying thickness are available, but we prefer the extra thin, crispy crust of the basil-heavy Olde New York. Why: Chain pizza? Blech.

Montesano's Italian Deli

3441 W. Sahara Ave.; 876-0348

4835 W. Craig Road; 656-3708

$-$$; Casual

One visit illustrates why Montesano's grew from a small storefront deli and bakery to two busy bistros. The menu is a mishmash of New York Italian dishes; the pizzas are all delicious, and the sandwiches (including sliced-to-order egg salad) show why locals line up to buy fresh bread. Why: Just gaze at that fresh-baked dessert case.

Nora's Cuisine

6020 W. Flamingo Road; 365-6713

$; Casual

First a pizzeria, then a small, full-menu, full-service restaurant. Sound familiar? Serving great food for better prices, Nora's has built a solid following thanks to the family's delicious pizza and traditional Italian recipes. Why: It's the little joint that could.

Panevino Ristorante

246 Via Antonio; 222-2400

$$$; Smart Casual

Featuring an open dining room with an expansive curving wall of glass overlooking the Strip, a seemingly unending bar punctuated by a comfortable lounge around a blazing fire, and a delicious menu of upscale Italian comfort food, Panevino is a pleasant place to nosh the gnocchi. Why: It's all about the view.

Piero's Italian Cuisine

355 Convention Center Drive; 369-2305

$$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Freddie Glusman's off-Strip hideaway is so Mob Vegas that he once joked that "the boys still come in here, but now the FBI follows them in." At least we think he was joking. Famous as much for its clientele as its specialties (osso buco, stone crab), Piero's attracts old-guard celebs and those who dress like them. Why: A holdover from the golden days.

Viaggio's Italian Cuisine

12261 S. Eastern Ave.; 492-6900

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

Get vertigo at Viaggio with a view that stuns the uninitiated, not to mention a salad and appetizer menu (Phyllo wrapped shrimp with gorgonzola! Crab ravioli!) that can evolve into a meal in itself. Extensive fresh pasta selections, plus steak and seafood--all at prices the tourists would envy. Why: A neighborhood nosh of the first order.

Milo's Best Cellars

538 Nevada Highway; 293-9540

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

In the old downtown quarter of Boulder City, Milo's offers 23 wines by the glass, a longer list of beer and ale, and a retail wall of 100 bottles of wine under $10. A modest $10 corkage fee pops the top to enjoy your selection with the short but satisfying menu of salads, panini, and cheese and fruit plates--perfect foils to the vino. Why: Day trip!

LATIN/MEXICAN

Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba

3200 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 298-1211

$-$$$; Smart Causal/Trendy

This stylish Spanish tapas bar boasts a kinetic patio, a dark dining room, and a bustling bar sloshing several delicious varieties of refreshing sangria. Skip the entrees and share from dozens of hot (jalapeño shrimp, olive crusted halibut, fried green peppers) and cold (tortilla española, lobster cocktail) tapas. Why: The center Strip rules!

Casa Don Juan

1202 S. Main St.; 384-8070

$; Casual

Visiting the completely reborn (after a fire years ago) Casa Don Juan is like stepping out of Las Vegas and into Downtown, Anyplace. Freshly handmade tortillas wrap the expected tacos and burritos, but digging deeper on the menu reveals the Baja-inspired parrillada (seafood grill), steak ranchero, and chilaquiles. Why: Downtown rebuilds.

Chipotle

4530 S. Maryland Parkway; 436-9177

10251 S. Eastern Ave.; 361-6438

¢; Casual

Fast, fresh food with an urban hipster/collegiate vibe. Tasty custom-made 20-ounce burritos, fresh tacos, and the trump card once held by the late Taco Cabana, beer and margaritas (soon), are the staples, but the authentic (hot!) salsas fuel the food here. Why: Slum with the undeclared undergrads.

Cozymel's Coastal Mexican Grill

355 Hughes Center Drive; 732-4833

$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

With 15 locations, nine of them in the southern and midwestern U.S., you might think Cozymel's specializes in bland approximations of Mexican food. But if you focus on the seafood specialties (Yucatan Especial, Chilean Sea Bass), you'll be happy. Why: Fajitas and margaritas.

Doña Maria's Tamales

910 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 382-6538

3205 N. Tenaya Way; 656-1600

$; Casual

This few-frills family-owned Mexican cocina features the expected combination plates, but order a platter of tamales menu--pork, chicken, or cheese--and eat until it's no masa. Experienced diners know to request a bowl of the smoking hot chipotle salsa, with a snowy margarita to quench the flame. Why: Tamales!

El Sombrero Cafe

807 S. Main St.; 382-9234

$; Casual

Since 1950, El Sombrero has been the archetypical Mexican hole-in-the-wall. A tiny storefront in a part of town most suburbanites ignorantly avoid, El Sombrero is still owned by the same bloodline that launched it. The food is classic Tex-MexAmerican: cheap, good eats overflowing the plate. Why: Not everything good is new.

Firefly Tapas Kitchen

3900 Paradise Road; 369-3971

$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Urban hipsters adore Mon Ami Gabi alumnus (chef) John Simmons and (manager) Ramon Triay's groovy tapas bar. Circle your friends and share from dozens of small plates such as tortilla española, shrimp tempura, ahi skewers, mushroom tarts and addictive parmesan fries. Why: One of the best values in the city, though service is spotty.

Florida Cafe

1401 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 385-3013

$-$$; Casual

This Cuban cafe does a good job of offering something for everyone. At breakfast, sample the Cuban bread and eggs with sweet plantains. Later, there are more Cuban specialties--chuletas empanizadas (breaded pork chops) and picadillo aceitunado (Cuban beef hash) among them--along with a tasty appetizer menu. Why: Cuban food in Vegas.

La Barca

953 E. Sahara Ave.; 657-9700

$$; Casual

La Barca puts on no airs about being anything other than a traditional Baja Californian eatery, where ceviche is the stuff of which meals are made, and ice-cold beer makes it all go down. Don't think you'll settle down with a plate of rice/bean/tortilla something. Here's it is all--all--about the seafood. Why: Brave the grit and leave the fakes behind.

Lindo Michoacan

2655 E. Desert Inn Road; 735-6828

3715 S. Decatur Blvd.; 257-6810

$; Casual

Lindo Michoacan is like stepping into a restaurant in Mexico. Yes, you'll find the familiar concession of combination plates featuring tacos and enchiladas and the like, but there are also traditional specialties (seafood, roasted goat) that take this firmly into the realm of authenticity. Why: Considered by some to be the city's best Mexican restaurant.

Pink Taco

4455 Paradise Road (Hard Rock); 693-5000

$-$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

The Ÿber-sexy beachside taqueria in the Cabo of your dreams. Everyone--staff, sexpots, satyrs--looks to have been plucked from MTV, and the music volume boosts conversation to strip club levels. Unexpectedly, the Mexican menu (by chef Tacho Kneeland) is equally as appealing as the people. Why: Cheaper than spring break in Mexico.

Tacos Mexico

3820 W. Sahara Ave.; 385-7673

$; Casual

Like something straight out of East L.A., Tacos Mexico specializes in the real thing: tacos that taste so different you may think you have died and gone to Mexico. Why fast food taco joints still exist is a mystery, for this place does them immeasurably better and almost as cheap. Why: Open late and always busy.

Viva Mercado's

6182 W. Flamingo Road; 871-8826

$-$$; Casual

The Mercado family long ago turned this strip mall spot into a Las Vegas fave. The massive menu (including a long Baja seafood selection) is always well-tended, making the food much better than almost any of the typical Mexican places. Why: A fairly long vegetarian specialty list.

MEDITERRANEAN

FLAVOR

Al Basha

3969 S. Maryland Pkwy.; 699-7155

$; Casual

A small, casual storefront in the University District, Al Basha offers inexpensive and expected college-style fare of Greece, Lebanon, Persia. The falafel is considered by some to be superior to others in the neighborhood, but the kabobs--including a vegetable option--are the menu faves. Why: Good food isn't always pricey.

Caspian Sea

2101 S. Decatur Blvd.; 259-8500

$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Caspian Sea is a bit more refined and upmarket than its spritual predecessor, the University District's Mediterranean Cafe. The menu is similar, but the emphasis is on entrees (lamb), rather than mezza (delicious falafel and hummus) and salads. Why: Local joints deserve the chance.

Habib's Persian Cuisine

4750 W. Sahara Ave.; 870-0860

$$; Smart Casual

One of the city's few upscale Middle Eastern restaurants, Habib's serves the expected borani, hummus, and kabobs, but also offers daily specials like Koresht Fesenjan (pomegranate-marinated chicken with crushed walnuts). An adjoining market features ingredients for your own home cooked version. Why: Tablecloths and tabouleh.

Hedary's

7365 W. Sahara Ave.; 873-9041

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

You'll find the all the expected tastes--falafel, hummus, tabuli, kibbi--plus some delicious lesser-known Lebanese specialties (stuffed bread, mqaniq). Ordering the tasting meze unleashes an seemingly unending flow of small plates to your table. Why: Middle Eastern food is easy to make, but not easy to make deliciously.

Paymon's Mediterranean Café

4147 S. Maryland Parkway; 731-6030

$-$$; Casual/Trendy

Shorts and suits share space at this University District classic, where Paymon Raouf has served tasty tabouleh and fab falafel for years. Lunch tables are prime real estate, dinner crowds pleasantly hip and articulate--unless you are in the lounge, where it seems anything goes over hookahs and hummus. Why: An elusive casual sophistication.

Pita Place

3429 S. Jones. Blvd.; 221-9955

$; Casual

Inexpensive and delicious, the Pita Place--located in a converted old-style Taco Bell--is considered one of the city's largely undiscovered gems. The unassuming joint serves delicious Middle Eastern salads, kabobs and falafel, and offers all of its food for take-out. Why: The kind of ethnic dining other cities sport in spades.

Todd English's Olives

3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 693-7223

$$-$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

A recent remodel at this Bellagio stalwart reveals a snazzy Jeffrey Beers interior of wood and distressed leather reflecting the modern, clubby style so popular these days. Enjoy positively delicious wood-fired flatbreads, delightful salads, and a deep entree list of seabass, salmon and the like. Why: A patio view of the fountain show.

ON THEIR OWN

Cafe Heidelberg

610 E. Sahara Ave.; 731-5310

$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Warm potato salad hasn't tasted this good since the Alpine Village Inn was demolished for a parking lot, and we're happy Cafe Heidelberg, serving schnitzel from the same storefront since 1958, stuck around to carry on the tradition. Why: Sidled up to the bar with the rest of the old-timers, imported German biers wash down homeland specialties.

Crown & Anchor British Pub

1350 E. Tropicana Ave.; 739-8676

$-$$; Casual

Oi, mate, get the footy on the telly an' bring me ah pint! A favorite of students, soccer fans, and Brit ex-pats, this mostly authentic pub serves up much of Britannia's "and" grub--bangers and mash, steak and kidney pie, fish and chips. Why: A great beer and cider list and a healthy dose of that workingman's Eurovibe the intellects love.

Gaylord's

3700 W. Flamingo Road; 777-2277

$$$; Smart Casual

One of San Francisco's finest, and perhaps Sin City's first and only gourmet Indian eatery, launched last year in the unlikely Rio resort. Forget the idea that "ethnic" and "cheap" are typically tablemates; open your wallet and prepare to savor some of the best samosa, curry and kebabs you have ever tasted. Why: Gourmet Indian!

Luv-It Frozen Custard

505 E. Oakey Blvd.; 384-6452

$; Casual

The Tiedemann family's walk-up window in the shadow of the Stratosphere and on the edge of the John S. Park Historic District. Creamy, dreamy frozen custard (made daily on site from fresh eggs and cream) kicks the ass of any ice cream you ever had, so brave the urban location and have a real dessert for a change. Why: A Vegas institution since 1973.

SURF 'N' TURF

AJ's Steakhouse

4455 Paradise Road (Hard Rock); 693-5000

$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

A throwback to the heyday of Vegas steakhouses, AJ's comes across as a Rat Pack-era hangout for boys and the broads who love 'em. An oh-so-Hollywood crowd jams the bar, while diners sample delicious steaks and seafood as a piano player entertains. Why: Frank would have wanted you to.

Aquaknox

3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South (Venetian); 414-3772

$$$-$$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Seafood is the Vegas cuisine du jour, and chef Tom Moloney oversees this contemporary showcase for his California-inspired dishes. A waterfall conceals a walk-in wine cellar, adding atmosphere to a trendy place already fat with the stuff. Why: Fresh fish is jet-setted in daily.

Bob Taylor's Ranch House

6250 Rio Vista St.; 645-1399

$$-$$$; Casual/Smart Casual

You can get mesquite-grilled steaks and seafood on almost any corner anymore, so why make the drive? For a taste of old-school hospitality and an escape from corporate blandness. Filet and shrimp, lobster tail, prime rib...the menu reads like 1950s Vegas. Why: A genuine flashaback to the good old days.

Charlie Palmer Steak

3960 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-5120

Trendy/Black Tie; $$$-$$$$

Escape Las Vegas on the Strip at this comfortably upscale surf and turf in the gaming-free Four Seasons, where Aureole's mastermind oversees some of the best cuts of prime in town. The entire experience--from the gracious valet to the attentive service to the expansive, airy dining areas--imparts country club elegance. Why: Get out of the casino.

Como's Steakhouse

10 Via Brianza; 567-9950

$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Chef Josef Keller (Thomas's brother) operates this intimate, jazz-infused steakhouse in the Euro-styled Monte Lago Village at Lake Las Vegas, and anyone seeking a romantic, gold card night utterly away from Vegas should give it a go. Why: Steakhouses haven't provided escapism like this since Bob Taylor's was a half-hour from civilization.

Fix

3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 693-7223

$$-$$$; Trendy

With a dark, edgy interior and an upscale American menu, Fix is the Bellagio equivalent of N9NE and Simon. The well-executed menu visits no new ground with its wood-fired surf 'n' turf; the surprises are the "Bobby Baldwin Burgers" (a plate of three Kobe sliders, costing nearly a Jackson), the "Forks" (smoked salmon and caviar poppers), and the freshly fried potato chips with blue cheese dressing. Why: Get your bling on.

Golden Steer

308 W. Sahara Ave.; 384-4470

$$$; Smart Casual/Jacket

There are restaurants notorious for their discretion, both at the deep booths and in general. The Golden Steer, a meat lover's paradise, is just such a place: a dark, private steakhouse where much of what went down in the old days was discussed. Why: Looking for love or to be left alone? This is the place.

Joe's Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab

3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South (Forum Shops); 792-9222

$$$-$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

Joe's successfully elicits the glamour of Rat Pack Vegas. Thankfully, the surf 'n' turf selections live up the numerous promises, with signature fresh stone crab, regional seafood specialties flown in daily (salmon, scallops, mahi mahi, king crab), and bone-in steaks that rival the city's best. Why: Incredible value, service and style.

Kona Grill

750 S. Rampart Blvd.; 547-5552

$$; Casual/Trendy

The west side's hottie-spot hails from Scottsdale yet feels like Kon Tiki California. The plasma-screened indoor-outdoor bar area is where the restless congregate, and the staff feels like Hollywood. Everything from surf 'n' turf to pasta, sushi and a pretty decent pizza are available. Why: The best half-price happy hour bar menu we've enjoyed.

Michael Mina's

3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 693-7223

$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

Seafood in the desert should not be this impressive. Formerly a branch of San Francisco's famed Aqua, Chef Mina split off and kept this his own. Sequestered in the Bellagio is the city's best (and priciest) fish joint, an almost conceited room where a lobster truffle gnocchi is really no big deal. Why: Sometimes, platinum is the only way to go.

N9NE Steakhouse

4321 W. Flamingo Road (Palms); 942-7777

$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Upscale modern in decor and futuristic in accouterments (plasma screens in the toilet?), N9NE's sexy lounge, where the beautiful thirtysomethings meet, eats a third of the space, while steak and seafood tables surround a round center bar. Why: Music, hotties, liquor...you get the idea.

Ruth's Chris Steak

3900 Paradise Road; 791-7011

4561 W. Flamingo Road; 248-7011

$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Carnivores jonesing for a late-night protein plate need look no further than this pair of upscale surf 'n' turf joints, two outposts of a New Orleans-based chain famous for its chunky slabs o' beef broiled at 1,800 degrees. Why: A little known option for those requiring the full monty dining experience as late as 3 a.m.

SeaBlue

3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 891-3486

$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Chef Michael Mina's seafooder in the MGM Grand hooks the glitterati with its swirling aquarium, impressive water walls and fresh-daily seafood. Ocean specialties are grilled (over wood), baked (in clay) or simply served raw--much like the crowd of A-listers and hangers on who feed at the joint. Why: Lobster corndogs.