Wednesday, Feburary 23, 2005
Copyright © Las Vegas Mercury

Eat 100 (AMERICAN/CONTINENTAL - FRENCH)

Edited by James P. Reza

Welcome to the Eat 100--the Mercury's guide to our favorite 100 places to eat in Southern Nevada. This list, to be presented in several organizational formats, is compiled from the hundre

ds of listings we have gleefully researched, written and published over the past several years and 20 pounds. It is a work in progress, updated weekly as restaurants open, close, rise or fall. Contact the editor at jpreza@cox.net.

AMERICAN/

CONTINENTAL

Hugo's Cellar

202 Fremont St.; 385-4011

Trendy/Black Tie; $$$$

This old-school celebration of classic Continental cuisine (steaks, veal) has served generations of engagements, prom dates and anniversaries in the basement of downtown's Four Queens, presenting every woman with a single red rose and their escorts with a hefty bill. Why: Tableside preparation of salads and classic desserts.

The Melting Pot

8704 W. Charleston Blvd.; 384-6358

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

With stylish mags like WallPaper boosting fondue and folks indulging at trendsetting retro-house parties as early as 1999, the fondue restaurant proved not far behind. This stylish nationwide chain is perfect for a (small or large) group of adventurous friends who harbor no fear of sharing. Why: You'll enjoy every last dip.

Sterling Sunday Brunch

3645 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 947-4661

$$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

No buffet captures the experience of the Sunday brunches once held in the glorious tiered showrooms of Vegas past. However, Bally's Sterling Brunch--staged in an intimate room replete with ice sculptures and attentive, sharply attired staff--comes close. Gorge on gourmet so good you'll hardly believe you can get refills. Why: The quintessential brunch.

Tinoco's Bistro

103 E. Charleston Blvd.; 868-0430

310 E. Warm Springs Road; 263-7880

$$; Smart Casual

Chef Enrique Tinoco's Italian-influenced menu serves big-city food (Chilean seabass, lobster ravioli) to an urbane and urban crowd. The cozy, semi-industrial space in the Arts Factory carries a very Manhattan vibe with its handpainted tables, stained concrete block walls and exposed ducts. Why: There's life outside those movie-set 'burbs.

Top of the World

2000 Las Vegas Blvd. South (Stratosphere); 380-7711

Trendy/Black Tie; $$$-$$$$

Revolving restaurants seem a gimmicky throwback to the heady, optimistic days of the World's Fairs, and the pricey continental cuisine only adds to the perception. But we cannot argue the gimmick when the view is as grand as this--a one-hour tour of the Vegas valley had without abandoning your steak and lobster. Why: Neon, baby.

AMERICAN/DINER

Bay City Diner

1 Fremont St.; 385-1906

$; Casual

Casino coffee shops were a refuge where bleary-eyed losers found solace while slowly swallowing steak and eggs, wearing a thousand yard stare and fondly recalling a time when they had money. Few remain, but it's appropriate that this one, in Las Vegas' first hotel (the Golden Gate, opened 1906), does. Why: Like something from a noir western.

BJ's Brewhouse

10840 W. Charleston Blvd.; 853-2300

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Hardly the intimate beachside bistro of Laguna, BJ's of Vegas is a faux-industrial warehouse packed with value-seeking Summerlinites. Chilled salads are nice, the burgers (including veggie) tasty and they even have grilled salmon, but it's the delish deep-dish pizza and microbrews that command attention. Why: You can dine late at the bar.

The Buffet

129 Fremont St.; 385-7111

$-$$; Casual

We would be remiss to ignore the buffet, and we find no shame in including this comfortable, cozy gem in the Golden Nugget. Intimate and stylish, with service to match. The fresh fruit and desserts are excellent, breakfast delightful, the price is right and the value high--just like when the mob ran the city. Why: Much more old school than mess hall.

Carson Street Cafe

129 Fremont St.; 385-7111

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Much like its neighbor the Golden Gate, the Golden Nugget is old Vegas to the core, and not in any kitschy sort of way. The Carson Street Cafe, a longtime fave of judges, attorneys and other suited types, offers comfort, value and a trip back in time--all for the price of tuna salad on croissant. Why: Tim and Tom.

Cheesecake Factory

750 S. Rampart Blvd.; 951-3800

3500 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 792-6888

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

The massive menu includes a dozen tasty salads are offered to accompany everything from burgers and breakfast to quesadillas and Cuervo. When it comes to chasing down a meal of salty comfort food, we prefer the exquisite fresh strawberry shortcake or apple dumpling. Why: Something for everyone.

Coffee Pub

2800 W. Sahara Ave.; 367-1913

$; Casual

Tasty early-day meals served by a staff that knows when to keep quiet about what they hear and see--how Vegas can you get? The Pub was among the first off-Strip breakfast/lunch joints for the power players and young, stylish professionals. Why: salads, sandwiches, soups, smoothies.

Fatburger

3763 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 736-4733

(and nine other locations)

¢; Casual

Many late nights have found us seeking post-gin nourishment, too often in a burrito cheaper than a gumball. No more, we say. Instead, roll into the 24/7 drive-through of these fried burger joints and enjoy thick-as-cement ice cream shakes, fried egg-on-toast sandwiches, or the fattest burger your mama ever made. Why: Hangover, away!

Memphis Championship Barbecue

2250 E. Warm Springs Road; 260-6909

4379 Las Vegas Blvd. North; 644-0000

4949 N. Rancho Drive; 396-6223

$; Casual

Barbecue is a big deal down south, representing one of the few culinary arenas in which men willingly get their grill on. This local low-key chain with a big following specializes in the national award winning dry-rub barbecue of chef-owner Mike Mills, who imports apple wood from Illinois to impart the signature flavor into baby back ribs, chicken, beef, hot links and chopped pork. Why: A local success story.

Mr. Lucky's

4455 Paradise Road (Hard Rock); 693-5592

$-$$; Casual/Trendy

This rocking joint modernizes the casino coffee shop and makes us wonder why it ever disappeared. With breakfast served 24 hours, the tastiest veggie burger in Vegas and the unlisted steak-and-shrimp special (ask for it), there's nothing left but dessert and eye candy. Why: 24-hour party, people.

Nordstrom Marketplace Cafe

3200 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 784-1610

$-$$; Smart Casual

Hidden on the third level of Las Vegas's only Nordstrom, eating here feels like you're tucked away in a Manhattan department store. This semi-cafeteria style eatery offers tasty salads, sandwiches, pasta and pizza enjoyed in deep, comfortable booths decorated in dark woods. Why: Refreshingly urban, at once relaxed, moderately priced and urbane.

Omelet House

2160 W. Charleston Blvd.; 384-6868

$; Casual

The Omelet House is part dark, homey breakfast joint, part greasy spoon, and all small town atmosphere. The original central location is a haunt for long time Las Vegans of all stripes, who love the massive omelet selection and perhaps the longest breakfast menu in town. Suburban locations in Summerlin and Henderson. Why: An old-school favorite.

Original Pancake House

4833 W. Charleston Blvd.; 259-7755

2300 Paseo Verde Parkway; 617-7500

$; Casual

There are so many varieties of scratch-made delights at this Portland fave that it takes several minutes just to salivate your way through the menu: apple, Swedish, buckwheat... For those who don't dig sweets in the morning, a full breakfast menu is also available. Why: Everyone leaps at the thought of pancakes.

AMERICAN/NOUVEAU

Aureole

3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South (Mandalay Bay); 632-7777

$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

Though design threatens to strip the food of its adoration, Aureole nevertheless overcomes the commanding Mission: Impossible steel-and-glass wine tower to serve excellent nouveau American cuisine. If you like wine with your foie gras and fancy yourself among the design elite, this is where you should sip. Why: Wine angels!

Bradley Ogden

3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South (Caesars Palace); 731-7413

$$$-$$$$; Smart Casual

San Francisco chef Bradley Ogden, a champion of high-end New American, works the grill nearly every day at this, his ninth eatery. This joint owns the attention of the power lunchers with its clubby atmosphere and closely attended menu showcasing fresh regional ingredients. Why: A celeb chef working his own kitchen.

Commander's Palace

3663 Las Vegas Blvd. South (Aladdin); 892-8272

$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

The place to enjoy the food that made the Big Easy so easy to live with. Crab salads and shrimp remoulade and veal chop and fresh fish...it ain't N'Awlins unless it is rich and packed with flavor, and the weekend jazz brunch proves it with pecan crusted catfish, beignets, Gulf shrimp sugarcane skewers and more. Why: Does Vegas deserve this place?

House of Blues

3950 Las Vegas Blvd. South (Mandalay Bay); 632-7607

$$; Casual/Trendy

If hipness can be successfully exported across the gloriously unbuckled beef-eating belt of the U.S. of A., then this chain is the only one that has managed to do it reasonably well. On the premise of Louisiana food served in a voodoo-driven atmosphere, HOB combines a restaurant, bar, and concert hall into a vortex of cool. Why: Hotties and hamburgers.

Kennedy Tavern

2240 Village Walk Drive; 320-8100

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

Kennedy boasts striking modern architecture (by Carpenter Sellers), a huge bar and a dark, inviting lounge. The bar is packed with Green Valley hotties able to spend to look good, and the surf 'n turf menu delivered by service that sometimes uncomfortably borders on the doting. Why: Great patio and wine list.

Rosemary's

8125 W. Sahara Ave.; 869-2251

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

The upscale American bistro by former Emeril chefs Michael and Wendy Jordan that raised the bar for off-Strip dining. Rich New Orleans style infuses most of the choices, including BBQ Shrimp over Maytag Blue Cheese Slaw, White Peach & Prosciutto Salad, and parsnip and prosciutto scallops. Why: Five-star food at three-star prices.

Simon Kitchen & Bar

4455 Paradise Road; 693-5000

$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

At Kerry Simon's Hard Rock spot for the underdressed and overtressed, the lounge area is packed with pretty people on the weekends, while the comfort food trend launched years ago in New York and London makes old Vegas new again with super steaks, seafood and pasta. Why: Award-winning desserts melt in your wet, lip gloss-covered mouth.

Spago

3500 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 369-0360

$$$; Smart Casual

Puck popularized, if not invented, the unusual combinations that comprise California cuisine, and you'll enjoy everything from soups to pizza, pasta and homey American fusion while gawking at the glitterati and hoi polloi parading past. Why: The genesis of the Vegas dining renaissance, opened during the holiday season of 1992.

Tenaya Creek Restaurant & Brewery

3101 N. Tenaya Way; 362-7335

$-$$; Smart Casual

Operated by longtime local family the Etters, it's more than just an elegant eatery serving a tasty menu of sophisticated dishes served with proper presentation. It's also an award-winning microbrewery. And a kitchen that completes the meal with amazing desserts (try the Bananas Foster). Why: What more do you need?

Verandah

3960 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 632-5000

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

On the Strip but a world away is the Four Seasons relaxing casual escape. Hardly a coffee shop, the Verandah is the most posh, sophisticated "house restaurant" of any hotel in Vegas, especially after its recent freshening. Snag a table for lunch and you'll nosh California style with smart, old money. Why: The unmatched Sunday brunch.

Wolfgang Puck Bar & Grill

3799 Las Vegas Blvd. South (MGM Grand); 891-3000

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

While the menu here may read like Spago-lite to the Puck-less, we find a wonderful combination of Spago's traditions (wood-fired pesto shrimp pizza), Lupo's Italian influences (ricotta gnocchi) and some fresh new dishes (chargrilled salmon with cappellini, grilled Mediterranean chopped vegetable salad). Why: The kinetic energy, casual sophistication and worthy food make this a favored stop before a concert, show or night at the clubs.

ASIAN/FUSION

Crustacean

3663 Las Vegas Blvd. South (Aladdin); 650-0507

$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

A hedonistic feast for the senses in an elaborately designed room festooned with semi-private opium beds as booths, elegant hardwoods, and more than a hint of French colonial Vietnamese decadence. The Euro-Asian food (delightful crab puffs, sake marinated halibut) meshes nicely with the atmosphere. Why: You have to see it to believe it.

Food Express

2003 S. Decatur Blvd.; 870-1595

$; Casual/Smart Casual

The authenticity of an ethnic restaurant is said to be measured by the gringo ratio; at this unassuming joint it runs about 1-to-10. The daily menu boards are handwritten in Chinese characters, though a printed menu concedes to English. Why: Get past the sometimes surly attitude to get at the good food, served until 2 a.m. daily.

Hamada of Japan

365 E. Flamingo Road; 733-3005

$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

There's standard dining room service here, but the fun (and the parade of beautiful people) can be found at the sushi bar or getting rowdy in the teppan room, where food is sliced, diced and sizzled before your eyes at tables seating a dozen. Why: Enjoy a worthy combination of Asian kitsch and style with the Maxim crowd.

Japengo

101 MonteLago Boulevard, Lake Las Vegas; 567-6125

$$$; Smart casual

Located within the posh Hyatt Regency Lake Las Vegas Resort, Japengo's creamy Pacific Rim entrees compete with a panoramic view of the lake and nearby mountains, and it's difficult to declare a clear winner. Why: The food--melt-in-your-mouth-fresh seafood, perfectly grilled meat--is just as pretty as the view, and tastes as good as it looks.

Little Buddha

4321 W. Flamingo Road; 942-7778

$$-$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

The Palms' version of Paris' notorious Buddha Bar is at once a cocktail lounge, sushi bar and fusion restaurant. Groovy electro-lounge music pulses in the foreground (Buddha sells its own soundtrack CDs) while the fashion-capable nosh tasty French-Asian fusion cuisine. Why: Good food, great scene.

Lotus of Siam

953 E. Sahara Ave.; 735-3033

$$; Smart Casual

Insiders know Saipin and Bill Chutima's diner is renowned among globetrotting foodies. Visitors brave the Commercial Center for top southern Thai (pad Thai, satay), but stay for the northern specialties menu that includes Pla Dook Yang (charbroiled whole catfish). Why: The location filters out the fanny packers who have no idea what they are missing.

Malibu Chan's

8125 W. Sahara Ave.; 312-4267

$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

A busy bar scene, late hours and an air of casual elegance make this fusion eatery a popular west end stop, particularly for happy hour. Though the service can be indifferent, the well-mixed cocktails, the food (everything from fresh sushi to Puckish pizza), and the delicious desserts usually make it worth the effort. Why: Californicated Asian fare, just the way we like it, dude.

Mayflower Cuisinier

4750 W. Sahara Ave.; 870-8432

$$$; Smart Casual

An unusual French-influenced upscale Chinese restaurant in a strip mall, Mayflower was one of the first undiscovered greats when it opened in 1991. An elegant atmosphere debunks the stereotype of low-rent Chinese, as does your final check, but fans say its worth it for the carefully tended fusion specialties. Why: Zagat says it's the best Chinese.

Nobu

4455 Paradise Road; 693-5090

$$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Among global foodie cognoscenti, sex and sushi are symbiotic, so it makes perfect sense that Chef Nobu Matsuhisa would locate Nobu in the Hard Rock Hotel, the Vegas epicenter of the sexy and stylish. The food is a fusion of Asian and South American, the decor implies an updated cliched Japanese village. Why: Hey, is that De Niro?

Noodles

3600 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 693-8131

$$; Smart Casual

A relatively unknown modernist masterpiece tucked away in the Bellagio, Noodles serves delicious Pan-Asian comfort food until 3 a.m. every night. The room, designed by the internationally renowned Tony Chi, is a perfect backdrop for the parade of jet setting hipsters who frequent the joint. Why: Modernism still rings true for the faithful.

Prommares Thai Food

6362 W. Sahara Ave.; 221-9644

$; Casual

This tiny, family-run storefront does a great deal of take-out business, though that should not dissuade you from stopping in and grabbing one of the few small tables. The food is authentic Thai (though they will temper the hot peppers if you ask). Why: The Pad Thai noodles, vegetable curry, Thai iced tea and the prices.

Royal Star

3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South (Venetian); 414-1888

$$$$; Trendy/Black Tie

Kevin Wu's room is a beautiful, Asian-modern affair nicely complementing the delicious food. Bubbling tanks offer the freshest seafood in the desert, but even vegetarians will be surprised at the kitchen's creativity. Wanna try it without over-committing your pocketbook? Try the Dim Sum lunch. Why: Some of the city's best Asian.

Sam Woo BBQ

4215 Spring Mountain Road; 368-7628

$$; Casual

Those who bemoan a strip mall calling itself "Chinatown" might forgive that conceit when they arrive to spy the fresh fowl strung in the window, just like San Francisco. Delicious won ton soup and barbecued flesh means this is a no veggie zone. Why: Though the service and atmosphere might charitably be called "authentic," so can the food--a good thing.

Thai BBQ

1424 S. Third St.; 383-1128

$; Casual

This longtime Vegas eatery has made a name for itself by satisfying the take-out urges of many a lunching downtown cube farmer, and is the place many in town savored their first taste of Thai iced tea and coffee. The namesake barbecue is tasty, the satay very good, and the soup a nice alternative. Why: It's good and hot.

FRENCH

Alizé

4321 W. Flamingo Road; 951-7000

Trendy/Black Tie; $$$-$$$$

Andre Rochat, proprietor of downtown's venerable Andre's, offers arguably the best nighttime view in Vegas, particularly from the tables along the east window. Doting service delivers a delish French menu (duck foie gras, braised veal shank and the like) and a pricey wine list. Why: Hipsters go French.

Andre's

401 S. Sixth St.; 385-5016

$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

Downtown revival? Bah. Andre Rochat has held fast in this downtown bungalow for two decades, a testament to the chef's tasty French haute cuisine. Foie gras is now almost commonplace, but frog legs are not. Why: A menu that explores the breadth of France and a wine list boasting 500-plus selections.

Bonjour Casual French

8878 S. Eastern Ave.; 270-2102

$$$; Smart Casual

Purists take heart: Proprietors Marie and Bernard Calatayund hail from Cannes, so you know the food is authentic, while the service is uncharacteristically friendly--a welcome anomaly. A Green Valley neighborhood fave for several years. Why: Delish French country fare and well-chosen wine list are worth the drive from anywhere in the valley.

Bouchon

3355 Las Vegas Blvd. South (Venetian); 414-6200

$$$-$$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Thomas Keller's outpost of his Napa Valley fave is already on the radar of those seeking discreet ostentation. Rendered by the renowned Adam Tihany as old-school French bistro, Bouchon serves an upscale power breakfast every morning, plus classic bistro fare (pan seared, braised and roasted meats and fish) at dinner. Why: It's Bouchon, of course.

Marche Bacchus

2620 Regatta Drive; 804-8008

$$-$$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Once strictly an excellent wine retailer, in 2003 the Verge family added a French menu to this hidden-in-The Lakes bistro that attracts name chefs from the Strip. Enjoy tasty French standards, heavenly imported cheeses and, of course, wine, in a casual, elegant setting overlooking a lake. Why: Ten dollar corkage, the city's best vino value.

Mon Ami Gabi

3655 Las Vegas Blvd. South (Paris); 946-4433

$$-$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Dining al fresco is clearly underserved in Vegas, for even the platinum prices don't keep people from using the tables at this French sidewalk cafe as dealmakers--just as on the real Champs Elysées. A steak fritte, a glass of wine...you are Bardot in waiting. Why: Service, food, style.

Pamplemousse

400 E. Sahara Ave.; 733-2066

$$$$; Smart Casual/Jacket

Though eclipsed by the volume of excellent eateries opening in recent years, Georges LeForge's French old-house restaurant remains a classic haunt and a great date spot. The menu is in your server's head, the vegetables so fresh they snap, and the food darn good. Why: Intimate, unique and oh so continental.