Thursday, January 20, 2005
Copyright © Las Vegas Mercury

Eat 100 (CENTRAL/DOWNTOWN - NORTHWEST/SUMMERLIN)

Edited by James P. Reza

Welcome to the Eat 100--the Mercury's guide to our favorite 100 places to eat in Southern Nevada. This list, to be presented in several organizational formats, is compiled from the hundreds of listings we have gleefully researched, written and published over the past several years and 20 pounds. It is a work in progress, updated weekly as restaurants open, close, rise or fall. Contact the editor at jpreza@cox.net.

CENTRAL/DOWNTOWN

Andre's

401 S. Sixth St.; 385-5016

$$$$; Trendy/Jacket

Downtown revival? Bah. Andre Rochat has held fast in this downtown bungalow for two decades, a testament to the chef's tasty French haute cuisine. Foie gras is now almost commonplace, but frog legs are not. Why: A menu that explores the breadth of France and a wine list boasting 500-plus selections.

Bay City Diner

1 Fremont St.; 385-1906

$; Casual

Casino coffee shops were a refuge where bleary-eyed losers found solace while slowly swallowing steak and eggs, wearing a thousand yard stare and fondly recalling a time when they had money. Few remain, but it's appropriate that this one, in Las Vegas' first hotel (the Golden Gate, opened 1906), does. Why: Like something from a noir western.

Broadway Pizzeria

850 S. Rancho Drive; 259-9002

$; Casual

"Hey, how you doin', chief?" Greeted thusly by Mario or Anthony the moment the door swings wide to this unassuming storefront, you know this is a good Nu Yawk pizzeria. At the favorite Italian takeout joint for the Navigator moms from the nearby pricey 'hoods. Why: The deep dish is good, but when we slop down a slice of thin crust, fuggedaboudit.

The Buffet

129 Fremont St.; 385-7111

$-$$; Casual

We would be remiss to ignore the buffet, and we find no shame in including this comfortable, cozy gem in the Golden Nugget. Intimate and stylish, with service to match. The fresh fruit and desserts are excellent, breakfast delightful, the price is right and the value high--just like when the mob ran the city. Why: Much more old school than mess hall.

Cafe Heidelberg

610 E. Sahara Ave.; 731-5310

$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Warm potato salad hasn't tasted this good since the Alpine Village Inn was demolished for a parking lot, and we're happy Cafe Heidelberg, serving schnitzel from the same storefront since 1958, stuck around to carry on the tradition. Why: Sidled up to the bar with the rest of the old-timers, imported German biers wash down homeland specialties.

Carson Street Cafe

129 Fremont St.; 385-7111

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Much like its neighbor the Golden Gate, the Golden Nugget is old Vegas to the core, and not in any kitschy sort of way. The Carson Street Cafe, a longtime fave of judges, attorneys and other suited types, offers comfort, value and a trip back in time--all for the price of tuna salad on croissant. Why: Tim and Tom.

Casa Don Juan

1202 S. Main St.; 384-8070

$; Casual

Visiting the completely reborn (after a fire years ago) Casa Don Juan is like stepping out of Las Vegas and into Downtown, Anyplace. Freshly handmade tortillas wrap the expected tacos and burritos, but digging deeper on the menu reveals the Baja-inspired parrillada (seafood grill), steak ranchero, and chilaquiles. Why: Downtown rebuilds.

Chicago Joe's

820 S. Fourth St.; 382-5637

$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Ensconced since the early 1980s in a diminutive 1932 brick bungalow, Joe's serves southern Italian cooking, Chicago style, in a comfortably intimate atmosphere. Tasty signatures include spicy Lobster Joe and stuffed artichokes to offset the red sauce pasta. Why: Urban, romantic and affordable.

Coffee Pub

2800 W. Sahara Ave.; 367-1913

$; Casual

Tasty early-day meals served by a staff that knows when to keep quiet about what they hear and see--how Vegas can you get? The Pub was among the first off-Strip breakfast/lunch joints for the power players and young, stylish professionals. Why: salads, sandwiches, soups, smoothies.

Doña Maria's Tamales

910 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 382-6538

3205 N. Tenaya Way; 656-1600

$; Casual

This few-frills family-owned Mexican cocina features the expected combination plates, but order a platter of tamales menu--pork, chicken, or cheese--and eat until it's no masa. Experienced diners know to request a bowl of the smoking hot chipotle salsa, with a snowy margarita to quench the flame. Why: Tamales!

El Sombrero Cafe

807 S. Main St.; 382-9234

$; Casual

Since 1950, El Sombrero has been the archetypical Mexican hole-in-the-wall. A tiny storefront in a part of town most suburbanites ignorantly avoid, El Sombrero is still owned by the same bloodline that launched it. The food is classic Tex-MexAmerican: cheap, good eats overflowing the plate. Why: Not everything good is new.

Florida Cafe

1401 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 385-3013

$-$$; Casual

This Cuban cafe does a good job of offering something for everyone. At breakfast, sample the Cuban bread and eggs with sweet plantains. Later, there are more Cuban specialties--chuletas empanizadas (breaded pork chops) and picadillo aceitunado (Cuban beef hash) among them--along with a tasty appetizer menu. Why: Cuban food in Vegas.

Hugo's Cellar

202 Fremont St.; 385-4011

Trendy/Black Tie; $$$$

This old-school celebration of classic Continental cuisine (steaks, veal) has served generations of engagements, prom dates and anniversaries in the basement of downtown's Four Queens, presenting every woman with a single red rose and their escorts with a hefty bill. Why: Tableside preparation of salads and classic desserts.

La Barca

953 E. Sahara Ave.; 657-9700

$$; Casual

La Barca puts on no airs about being anything other than a traditional Baja Californian eatery, where ceviche is the stuff of which meals are made, and ice-cold beer makes it all go down. Don't think you'll settle down with a plate of rice/bean/tortilla something. Here's it is all--all--about the seafood. Why: Brave the grit and leave the fakes behind.

Lotus of Siam

953 E. Sahara Ave.; 735-3033

$$; Smart Casual

Insiders know Saipin and Bill Chutima's diner is renowned among globetrotting foodies. Visitors brave the Commercial Center for top southern Thai (pad Thai, satay), but stay for the northern specialties menu that includes Pla Dook Yang (charbroiled whole catfish). Why: The location filters out the fanny packers who have no idea what they are missing.

Luv-It Frozen Custard

505 E. Oakey Blvd.; 384-6452

$; Casual

The Tiedemann family's walk-up window in the shadow of the Stratosphere and on the edge of the John S. Park Historic District. Creamy, dreamy frozen custard (made daily on site from fresh eggs and cream) kicks the ass of any ice cream you ever had, so brave the urban location and have a real dessert for a change. Why: A Vegas institution since 1973.

Omelet House

2160 W. Charleston Blvd.; 384-6868

$; Casual

The Omelet House is part dark, homey breakfast joint, part greasy spoon, and all small town atmosphere. The original central location is a haunt for long time Las Vegans of all stripes, who love the massive omelet selection and perhaps the longest breakfast menu in town. Suburban locations in Summerlin and Henderson. Why: An old-school favorite.

Pamplemousse

400 E. Sahara Ave.; 733-2066

$$$$; Smart Casual/Jacket

Though eclipsed by the volume of excellent eateries opening in recent years, Georges LeForge's French old-house restaurant remains a classic haunt and a great date spot. The menu is in your server's head, the vegetables so fresh they snap, and the food darn good. Why: Intimate, unique and oh so continental.

Thai BBQ

1424 S. Third St.; 383-1128

$; Casual

This longtime Vegas eatery has made a name for itself by satisfying the take-out urges of many a lunching downtown cube farmer, and is the place many in town savored their first taste of Thai iced tea and coffee. The namesake barbecue is tasty, the satay very good, and the soup a nice alternative. Why: It's good and hot.

Tinoco's Bistro

103 E. Charleston Blvd.; 868-0430

310 E. Warm Springs Road; 263-7880

$$; Smart Casual

Chef Enrique Tinoco's Italian-influenced menu serves big-city food (Chilean seabass, lobster ravioli) to an urbane and urban crowd. The cozy, semi-industrial space in the Arts Factory carries a very Manhattan vibe with its handpainted tables, stained concrete block walls and exposed ducts. Why: There's life outside those movie-set 'burbs.

Top of the World

2000 Las Vegas Blvd. South (Stratosphere); 380-7711

Trendy/Black Tie; $$$-$$$$

Revolving restaurants seem a gimmicky throwback to the heady, optimistic days of the World's Fairs, and the pricey continental cuisine only adds to the perception. But we cannot argue the gimmick when the view is as grand as this--a one-hour tour of the Vegas valley had without abandoning your steak and lobster. Why: Neon, baby.

HENDERSON/GREEN

VALLEY

Bonjour Casual French

8878 S. Eastern Ave.; 270-2102

$$$; Smart Casual

Purists take heart: Proprietors Marie and Bernard Calatayund hail from Cannes, so you know the food is authentic, while the service is uncharacteristically friendly--a welcome anomaly. A Green Valley neighborhood fave for several years. Why: Delish French country fare and well-chosen wine list are worth the drive from anywhere in the valley.

Como's Steakhouse

10 Via Brianza; 567-9950

$$$; Smart Casual/Trendy

Chef Josef Keller (Thomas's brother) operates this intimate, jazz-infused steakhouse in the Euro-styled Monte Lago Village at Lake Las Vegas, and anyone seeking a romantic, gold card night utterly away from Vegas should give it a go. Why: Steakhouses haven't provided escapism like this since Bob Taylor's was a half-hour from civilization.

Kennedy Tavern

2240 Village Walk Drive; 320-8100

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

Kennedy boasts striking modern architecture (by Carpenter Sellers), a huge bar and a dark, inviting lounge. The bar is packed with Green Valley hotties able to spend to look good, and the surf 'n turf menu delivered by service that sometimes uncomfortably borders on the doting. Why: Great patio and wine list.

Original Pancake House

4833 W. Charleston Blvd.; 259-7755

2300 Paseo Verde Parkway; 617-7500

$; Casual

There are so many varieties of scratch-made delights at this Portland fave that it takes several minutes just to salivate your way through the menu: apple, Swedish, buckwheat... For those who don't dig sweets in the morning, a full breakfast menu is also available. Why: Everyone leaps at the thought of pancakes.

Viaggio's Italian Cuisine

12261 S. Eastern Ave.; 492-6900

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

Get vertigo at Viaggio with a view that stuns the uninitiated, not to mention a salad and appetizer menu (Phyllo wrapped shrimp with gorgonzola! Crab ravioli!) that can evolve into a meal in itself. Extensive fresh pasta selections, plus steak and seafood--all at prices the tourists would envy. Why: A neighborhood nosh of the first order.

Japengo

101 MonteLago Boulevard, Lake Las Vegas; 567-6125

$$$; Smart casual

Located within the posh Hyatt Regency Lake Las Vegas Resort, Japengo's creamy Pacific Rim entrees compete with a panoramic view of the lake and nearby mountains, and it's difficult to declare a clear winner. Why: The food--melt-in-your-mouth-fresh seafood, perfectly grilled meat--is just as pretty as the view, and tastes as good as it looks.

NORTHWEST/

SUMMERLIN

BJ's Brewhouse

10840 W. Charleston Blvd.; 853-2300

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Hardly the intimate beachside bistro of Laguna, BJ's of Vegas is a faux-industrial warehouse packed with value-seeking Summerlinites. Chilled salads are nice, the burgers (including veggie) tasty and they even have grilled salmon, but it's the delish deep-dish pizza and microbrews that command attention. Why: You can dine late at the bar.

Bob Taylor's Ranch House

6250 Rio Vista St.; 645-1399

$$-$$$; Casual/Smart Casual

You can get mesquite-grilled steaks and seafood on almost any corner anymore, so why make the drive? For a taste of old-school hospitality and an escape from corporate blandness. Filet and shrimp, lobster tail, prime rib...the menu reads like 1950s Vegas. Why: A genuine flashaback to the good old days.

Caspian Sea

2101 S. Decatur Blvd.; 259-8500

$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Caspian Sea is a bit more refined and upmarket than its spritual predecessor, the University District's Mediterranean Cafe. The menu is similar, but the emphasis is on entrees (lamb), rather than mezza (delicious falafel and hummus) and salads. Why: Local joints deserve the chance.

Cheesecake Factory

750 S. Rampart Blvd.; 951-3800

3500 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 792-6888

$-$$; Casual/Smart Casual

The massive menu includes a dozen tasty salads are offered to accompany everything from burgers and breakfast to quesadillas and Cuervo. When it comes to chasing down a meal of salty comfort food, we prefer the exquisite fresh strawberry shortcake or apple dumpling. Why: Something for everyone.

Fatburger

3763 Las Vegas Blvd. South; 736-4733

(and nine other locations)

¢; Casual

Many late nights have found us seeking post-gin nourishment, too often in a burrito cheaper than a gumball. No more, we say. Instead, roll into the 24/7 drive-through of these fried burger joints and enjoy thick-as-cement ice cream shakes, fried egg-on-toast sandwiches, or the fattest burger your mama ever made. Why: Hangover, away!

Fellini's

5555 W. Charleston Blvd.; 870-9999

(also in Sam's Town and Stratosphere)

$$$-$$$$; Smart Casual

You keep hearing about this elusive "old Vegas feel," and you wonder where you can find it. Wonder no more; in 1998, one of Sin City's oldest pizza places (it was once a Shakey's) was repurposed as an upscale southern Italian joint where the mover/shaker crowd provides the atmosphere. Enjoy a deep antipasti menu, extensive wine and scotch list and delicious entrees--but don't sit with your back to the door. Why: Isn't that the mayor?

Food Express

2003 S. Decatur Blvd.; 870-1595

$; Casual/Smart Casual

The authenticity of an ethnic restaurant is said to be measured by the gringo ratio; at this unassuming joint it runs about 1-to-10. The daily menu boards are handwritten in Chinese characters, though a printed menu concedes to English. Why: Get past the sometimes surly attitude to get at the good food, served until 2 a.m. daily.

Kona Grill

750 S. Rampart Blvd.; 547-5552

$$; Casual/Trendy

The west side's hottie-spot hails from Scottsdale yet feels like Kon Tiki California. The plasma-screened indoor-outdoor bar area is where the restless congregate, and the staff feels like Hollywood. Everything from surf 'n' turf to pasta, sushi and a pretty decent pizza are available. Why: The best half-price happy hour bar menu we've enjoyed.

Marche Bacchus

2620 Regatta Drive; 804-8008

$$-$$$; Casual/Smart Casual

Once strictly an excellent wine retailer, in 2003 the Verge family added a French menu to this hidden-in-The Lakes bistro that attracts name chefs from the Strip. Enjoy tasty French standards, heavenly imported cheeses and, of course, wine, in a casual, elegant setting overlooking a lake. Why: Ten dollar corkage, the city's best vino value.

The Melting Pot

8704 W. Charleston Blvd.; 384-6358

$$-$$$; Smart Casual

With stylish mags like WallPaper boosting fondue and folks indulging at trendsetting retro-house parties as early as 1999, the fondue restaurant proved not far behind. This stylish nationwide chain is perfect for a (small or large) group of adventurous friends who harbor no fear of sharing. Why: You'll enjoy every last dip.

Montesano's Italian Deli

3441 W. Sahara Ave.; 876-0348

4835 W. Craig Road; 656-3708

$-$$; Casual

One visit illustrates why Montesano's grew from a small storefront deli and bakery to two busy bistros. The menu is a mishmash of New York Italian dishes; the pizzas are all delicious, and the sandwiches (including sliced-to-order egg salad) show why locals line up to buy fresh bread. Why: Just gaze at that fresh-baked dessert case.

Tenaya Creek Brewery

3101 N. Tenaya Way; 362-7335

$-$$; Smart Casual

Operated by longtime local family the Etters, it's more than just an elegant eatery serving a tasty menu of sophisticated dishes served with proper presentation. It's also an award-winning microbrewery. And a kitchen that completes the meal with amazing desserts (try the Bananas Foster). Why: What more do you need?