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  Thursday, Jan 8, 2009, 09:18:13 PM


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NUTS AND BOLTS
WITH BUFFALO JIM

Thursday, March 10, 2005
Copyright © Las Vegas Mercury

Nuts and Bolts with Buffalo Jim

Dear Buffalo Jim,

About 2 1/2 years ago, I bought a 2000 Nissan Maxima SE. At the time, it had a slight pull so the dealer performed a wheel alignment. Since that time, I have had to get two more wheel alignments and presently need another one. Each time I've had the alignments done, I've asked them to check for some other underlying problem, and they always say they can't find anything wrong. I even brought it to a tire shop one time to see if it was maybe the tires but to no avail. I am not an aggressive driver, so I can't understand why I need a wheel alignment every seven to eight months. What do you think?

--Trent Dang

First off, bro, let's establish that there's nothing magical or mysterious about wheel alignments. I know, I know, nowadays shops are using all kinds of lasers and computers to perform alignments, but it's really only for the sake of time and convenience. In fact, I've known a couple of clever mechanics who have performed alignments in their driveways with nothing but a tape measure and a socket set. I don't recommend the procedure, but it just goes to show that wheel alignments aren't the crazy voodoo that some people imagine. A proper alignment is really just a matter of lining up the wheels so the car goes straight when it's supposed to and turns when you want it to.

The trick with alignment problems is to figure out what's causing the wheels to drift out of position. Usually it's a bent tie rod or an improperly inflated tire or a wheel that's been bumped out of square, but your situation is clearly different. Ideally, you should have your car's alignment checked every 10,000 miles, but unless the car has been driven recklessly, it shouldn't require a service every time (and certainly not four alignments in three years). I know $100 isn't a lot of money to spend at the shop, but it adds up on repeated visits. And nobody wants to spend more time than is absolutely necessary sitting in a waiting room, watching black-and-white reruns of "The People's Court" and nibbling the sprinkles off stale doughnuts.

So I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that your Nissan was in an accident before you bought it and the frame was slightly bent in the process. If the frame were damaged and never properly straightened, it could cause the front and rear tires to pull on each other and throw the car's alignment out of whack. Next time you bring it in for service, take it to a reputable shop and ask the mechanic to inspect for previous frame damage. If you haven't already, you could order a $20 Carfax report on the vehicle, which might tell you if the car was ever in a fender bender. Also, consider the possibility that the tie rod ends could be worn from repeated service. If these were loose, it would be impossible for the car to maintain a true alignment for any length of time.

Hi Buffalo Jim,

My main source of transportation is a 2002 Honda Civic. It's reliable, safe, utilitarian and silver--like every other car out there. Simply put: It's boring! I've admired this 1968 VW Beetle in the parking lot at work, and always thought, "Now that looks like a fun car!" After all, what kid growing up with Herbie movies didn't want a car just like that?!

Lo and behold the owner will let it go for $1,000, and it sounds like he replaced a whole ton of crap on it. My insurance will go up $400 a year, but other than running a Carfax check on it, what are some things I should look for? I admit that I don't know a whole lot about cars, but I might have to learn if the car turns out to be a lemon. Of course, I'll keep the Honda for work purposes. Thanks for your input.

--Cathy Brown

It's never smart to ask someone who owns 100 cars whether to buy a vehicle, but since you asked, I say buy it and don't give it a second thought. Bugs are great old cars--reasonably reliable and relatively easy to repair. Plus, there are a huge number of shops and mail-order parts houses that specialize in old Volkswagens, so replacement parts are cheap and plentiful.

But if you're still concerned, you should do your own little inspection before making any deals. First, look at the car. Does it sit right? Is the finish round and flat or jagged and bumpy? Do the tires have tread and does the tread look even? When you push down on the bumper, does the car quickly return to its original position? Next, open the rear deck lid and look at the motor. Is it clean? Are there any significant oil leaks (especially around the eight push rod tubes at the bottom of the engine)? Start the motor and briefly feel the hot air coming out of the exhaust. Is it putting out a steady put-put-put? Finally, drive the car. Accelerate, take some turns and hit the brakes. Does it come to a smooth stop and is there space beneath the brake pedal? Also, check all of the lights and signals to make sure they work properly.

You can't expect perfection, but the car should feel sturdy and tight. In this case, it's so old that a Carfax report probably won't help you, but if the owner consents, you could bring it in to a shop for a $100-$150 inspection. I would also warn you to be careful about driving in the summer, since the air-cooled engine can overheat when the car is stuck in traffic. Other than that, I say splurge. In the end, it's only $1,000.

Buffalo Jim is the owner of Allstate Auto Marine. E-mail him your car questions at buffalojim@lasvegasmercury.com.


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